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By Billy H
Apr 29, 2012

Does anyone have any suggestions for a good ridge running/scrambling shoe? Preferably something that climbs really well, but also can be run and hiked in for long distances.

The FiveTen Insight was the only suggestion ive had so far. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.


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By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
May 4, 2012

LaSportiva Raptor. It has approach shoe grade rubber on a trail runner with nice protection from loose, sharp rocks.


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
May 4, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Also looking for cushy summer alpine shoes. I looked at the soles on the Raptors and thought that the lugs might rip off after miles on talus (had that problem with Five Ten Domes). I just got a pair of the Insights (lugs are rounded), but haven't tried them.

Can anyone comment on the Raptor sole durability? thanks


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
May 6, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Verdict on the Insights: toe box is too narrow

Going to try the Five Ten Savants, which are supposed to run wider and are also a bit more running shoe like.


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By Puzman
May 7, 2012
Little finger

also looking for something along these lines. I had the raptors, they didn't have enough underfoot rock protection and were too soft torsionally for me to use as running shoes. Tried La Sportiva Wildcats, thinking they'd be a bit beefier, but still too soft for me. Now I'm thinking of 5.10 Savants or the new La S Xplorer (looks like the old Exum Pro's). Anyone used either of these?


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By Auto-X Fil
From NEPA and Upper Jay, NY
May 7, 2012

My Raptor lugs have hundreds of miles with no signs of tearing.

I can't imagine running in a beefier shoe. These things are bombproof, and I blast through gnarly, steep trails in them.


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
May 7, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Puzman wrote:
...Now I'm thinking of 5.10 Savants or the new La S Xplorer (looks like the old Exum Pro's). Anyone used either of these?


Nice to see there's a viable replacement for the Exum Pros, which I like a lot but wish they had a tiny bit more volume in the vertical direction to accommodate my insoles.

@Auto-X Fil
I rarely have lugs rip off while trail running; it's talus/scrambling that does it.


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By Daniel Wade
From Oakland, CA.
May 7, 2012

I have the La Sportiva Wildcat and Scarpa Zen. More running/hiking I go with the Wildcat. More scrambling and less running/hiking I go with the Zen.


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By Mike V.
May 7, 2012

Auto-X Fil wrote:
LaSportiva Raptor. It has approach shoe grade rubber on a trail runner with nice protection from loose, sharp rocks.


Came here to say this


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
May 11, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

I just received my Savants in the mail. While they fit well (run wide), they have a lot of mesh on the sides, which I can tell are not going to survive even minimal abrasion. The hunt goes on.


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By Jeff Chrisler
From Boulder, CO
May 11, 2012

Auto-X Fil wrote:
LaSportiva Raptor. It has approach shoe grade rubber on a trail runner with nice protection from loose, sharp rocks.


No others need respond. The first was dead on. These things are great on long runs (I've done some trail races that were 20+ miles in them) and approaches are great because they stick to everything.


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By Chad F
From Costa Mesa, CA
May 11, 2012
photo

I have a size 10 LS raptor never ran in them before for sale.
50 bucks OBO


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
May 20, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Picked up a pair of Xplorers from La Sportiva. They have slightly higher volume in the vertical direction than the Exum Pros (I wanted something that would take insoles) and are shaped more like a climbing shoe in the front. Also, they have sticky rubber capping the toe and sides so they should hold up better to cracks. Yesterday, I soloed the E Buttress of Whitney in them. They were flawless, comfortable for hiking and no issues with friction, even on wet slab.

Thanks again for the tip, Puzman.


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Aug 6, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Can anyone comment on the Raptors for climbing? I realize they won't edge like an approach shoe. I've tried a couple different insoles with the Xplorers but after about 11 hours my feet are thrashed. I wanted to try something a little more cushy. At this point my only option for longer stuff is digging out my old Montrail CTCs since they'll fit my super cushy orthotics and they've served me well in the past.

thanks


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By Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Aug 6, 2012
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.

fossana wrote:
Can anyone comment on the Raptors for climbing? I realize they won't edge like an approach shoe. I've tried a couple different insoles with the Xplorers but after about 11 hours my feet are thrashed. I wanted to try something a little more cushy. At this point my only option for longer stuff is digging out my old Montrail CTCs since they'll fit my super cushy orthotics and they've served me well in the past. thanks



The Raptors have FriXion sticky rubber. And its super sticky. Not the crap the old Cirque Pro's had.
As long as you size sorta small the Raptors aren't to shabby for easy solo's scrambling etc.


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Aug 6, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

thanks, Alton!


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By Alton R.
From Boulder, Co
Aug 6, 2012
Center Direct, V10. Bishop, Ca.

Big Time Fossana! Forgot to add that you shouldn't downsize too much because then you wont be able to use them for trail running as well. As mentioned, edging is a pain in this shoe, but its kills on the smedge. AND you can now get the shoe in GTX for mens and womans.


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By Josh Kornish
Aug 6, 2012
The Roach

I really like my Salewa Firetails. Not a lot of 'cushion' but great shoes. Not great for running though


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Aug 6, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Alton R. wrote:
Big Time Fossana! Forgot to add that you shouldn't downsize too much because then you wont be able to use them for trail running as well. As mentioned, edging is a pain in this shoe, but its kills on the smedge. AND you can now get the shoe in GTX for mens and womans.


Again, good info. thanks I've got a stash of Hardrocks from my ultrageek days so I'm OK with having them a bit more fitted. Will track down a pair to try on.

@Josh: I checked out some Salewas and La Sportiva Gandas. With the almost nonexistent cushioning I knew I'd be asking for trouble on approach over a few hours. The Gandas are very well made; it's a shame for me they're so minimalist.


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By brenta
From Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2012
Cima Margherita and Cima Tosa in the Dolomiti di Brenta.  October 1977.

I've had a pair of Raptors for a few months. Compared to the Exum Pros they are better running shoes, but they don't climb as well. They are not terrible, but edging, as already noted, is a concept foreign to the Raptors.

I used to think the Cirque Pro were the worst La Sportivas I've ever owned, but now I reckon that at least they climb better than the Raptors. The Raptors also lack the heel loops to clip them to one's harness. Evidence--I surmise--that they were not meant to be used as approach shoes.

They are well made and the lugs have held up flawlessly so far, in spite of being put through some scree descents. The little built-in gaiters are rather effective at keeping dirt out. They are far from water resistant, but they dry quickly and they are more breathable than most. Again: very good trail runners. They are comfortable if they fit well. They seem designed for medium-width feet. Mine are narrow.

I liked the Exum Pros' colors better. Of course, that's a matter of taste, but the shiny black looks dirty five minutes into the first hike.

I tried the Gandas on for a few seconds when they came out. Enough to realize that I could not wear them for real hiking. I haven't tried the Xplorers yet. By just looking at them, I'd say they are closer to climbing shoes than the Exum Pros.


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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Aug 7, 2012
Me scaring years off my mom's life

Just did the Grand in the Xplorers. I got them in my street shoe size and they worked perfectly. Comfortable on the approach (even with a heavy pack...we camped at the Meadow) and they climbed great. Gripped real well and did a good job edging. I'm going to try something a little more difficult in them this weekend and I'll let you know how it turns out.


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Aug 7, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

Thanks, Brenta. I may be better off trying to get my insole situation refined. The Xplorers feel grippier than the Exum Pros and edge better, BTW.


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By Superclimber
Aug 8, 2012

I settled on the Scarpa Crux. They seemed too narrow at first, but then I realized the leather uppers would stretch. They're very sticky and smear well, sized accordingly they are comfortable for hiking, not so great edging. But the edging would probably be better if they were sized tighter. But I'ld rather be comfortable for the approaches and descents. Only problem is that the soles are very hard, so I too am trying to get the insole situation sorted out.


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By fossana
From Bishop, CA
Aug 9, 2012
downclimb off the First Flatiron <br />photo by TooTallTim

I picked up a pair of Evolv Escapists on clearance (if you have small feet they're on sale for $25 from Evolv) and took them out yesterday for a short alpine route (Inwood Arete on Quandary, direct start). There's a shortish pitch of 5.6-7 crack at the start and they climbed pretty well. They look like running shoes with sticky rubber, but the sole is a bit stiffer than a traditional running shoe and they edged much better than I expected. I still need to test them out on slab, but I doubt that will be an issue. I doubt they would hold up to sustained jam your foot in the crack type climbing, but they seem like a reasonable choice for routes/approaches that are mostly class 2 to low class 5.


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By OldManRiver
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 14, 2012
Red Rock, Cannibal crag

Adidas Terrex Solo: These are on clearance now, picked up a pair for use between trail running and climbing. Very sturdy base, love the sole design with flat toes and rubber protection along the toe sides. The tongue and heel are well designed for putting on, taking off, and providing a good fit w/o requiring breakin.

Overall very happy, no input on durability as they're pretty new. Design and functionality are very good though. I think this is one of the first approach shoes that followed Adidas' purchase of 5.10 (or whoever it was).


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