this nice flake provides a good warm-up for the gorgeous 5.11 corners in this neck of the woods.
begin with easy climbing up some chinle to the base of a left facing dihedral. the dihedral starts fingers and quickly goes to thin hands for a short section. then comes a low angled left facing, right leaning flake on glorious hands for about 70 feet to anchors on the left wall.
scout was kind of an accidental FA. the bloom book shows an unnamed 5.9 flake to the left of unnamed #38. we figured the book was wrong and that the 5.9 flake was to the right of unnamed #38. the book is still wrong (there is no 5.9 flake to the left of unnamed #38). but, we were too....
anway, i was getting impatient and told my old lady to head up that there crack. she asked if i saw any anchors up there. i thought i saw something that might be a bolt up there. the route was only supposed to be 75' tall. after climbing a while she asked how much rope was out. i yelled out that there was a ton of rope, and then looked down and saw the halfway mark just below my belay hand. this worked out pretty well, as the crack turned into a pile of dirt and whithered away just in time to not need to horse around with a 2nd rope.
this route is pretty far to the right. go to the right, past 'lift kit' (awesome RF corner with 3 bolt start), past the corner with the roofs, and then past unnamed #38 (which is a beautiful RF corner with 2 crack options for the start). about 10 feet to the right of unnamed #38 is the big flake - 'scout'.
2 each fingers to tight hands (#2 friends handy), maybe 4 hand sized pieces (#2 camalot), a #3 camalot and a # 4 camalot should do. Please feel free to add another bolt to the anchor. Both bolts are well placed, one is a powers 5 piece (3/8 X 3-1/2), the other is a red head (3'8 X 3-1/2). that's all i had in my kit.
|By Doug Fulford|
Apr 10, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
This thing gave me a wicked flash pump - it ain't no 10a! Solid .10c. Good route.