Scout Rock is a small cliff situated right along the roadside in SSV canyon. The rock is variable in quality having some horrible chossy stuff that no one will climb and some excellent, consolidated granite. It holds a few trad routes, and it has seen some recent sport route development. The cliff faces South, gets great sun, and has been climbed throughout the year. Owing to its location at the bottom of the canyon, sun in winter is pretty sparse. Because Scout Rock is so close to the road, climbing here requires a lot of attention to the traffic. Some cars and trucks have been known to scream through the SSV, despite its sane speed limit. Nonetheless, it is fairly easy to keep out of the road, just be very aware.
There are now several trad climbs on the west side of Scout Rock, where the beginner/intermediate trad leader can work up the ladder of difficulty: Scout Route (5.5), Funhouse Chimney (5.5), But for a Silver Bullet... (5.6), The Lone Ranger (5.6), Route 166 (5.7), Tom Thumb (5.8+), Exit Stage Left (5.9-), and In a Pinch/Genie (5.11c).
War Path is still in progress, and is mentioned here because the obvious bolting could be misleading. The line is to the right of the big dihedral/corner system on the West end of Scout Rock. Comanchee Warrior is to the left of War Path and follows the dihedral corner. The first pitch of War Path follows up a short roof and slab to a mid point anchor. The second follows the spectacular fin in the upper third of the wall. The first pitch was redpointed by Bernard [Gillett] at 5.12a at the end of...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Watch out for poison ivy at the base of this cliff... particularly at the bottom of Comanche Warrior. I had my first brush with the 'devil in vegetable form' here. The rash lasted more than a month. I will definitely be more observant next time!
I drive past this cliff all the time. I have stopped once. Most of the established climbs don't look particularly striking, but there is an overhanging, water streaked, headwall with a flared hand crack that looks brilliant. It definitely needs some brushing for a free ascent, I don't know if you could get gear in it, it is such a flare. may climb like a sloper problem. anyone know anything about this?
Solo-toproped Sacajaweah and Lambda yesterday. Easy to set up TR using medium and large cams, extended where necessary. Sac is leadable with gear (mostly tiny and small cams in horizontals), although NOT for the 5.6 leader.
Lambda has four bolts for lead pro and a two-bolt anchor just under the rim. Only one anchor bolt and one lead bolt have hangers, which spin. Close examination revealed that each of those two bolts spins with its hanger, meaning that each bolt is BROKEN inside each hole. Because those two bolts are NOT obviously dangerous to depend on, those should be crowbarred out ASAP. Except for a couple brief sections of Lambda, trad pro can be placed on the right side of the narrow face, then on the left, then in diagonal cracks in the upper half of the 40-foot route. Bring a full rack, including tiny to medium-large cams and doubles of 0.5 and 0.75 Camalots.
Who has removed the hangers from Lambda? Could be someone trying to scarf hangers for his project. Could be a crusty old trad who insists that it's leadable with removable gear, or that a TR is easy to set up. Could be Boulder County Parks and Open Space, the manager of the Hall Ranch Open Space, which lies behind Scout Rock.
This may answer the riddle posed by AC's comment posted here on Oct. 1, 2001. A look at a Boulder County Trails map shows the BCPOS/USFS boundary a bit north of the highway. Most of the climbs at Scout Rock appear to be on USFS or CDOT land. Perhaps Lambda is on BCPOS. Perhaps the anchor bolts atop the Scout Route/Triple Mantel/Route 166 were chopped by BCPOS. Lam, SR, TM, and 166 are the most northern routes at Scout Rock. There is NO signage or fence marking a boundary.
Years ago, BCPOS smashed many bolts and hangers on Bummers Rock, in the Betasso Preserve in Boulder Canyon. (Those bolts and hangers were obviously sabotaged, so a climber could decide to avoid leading the affected routes.) If BCPOS is vandalizing the rock and CREATING booby traps that could kill climbers, then BCPOS is 100% responsible for any injuries or death that could result. Yes, climbers should accept responsibility for their choices, but, when someone else sabotages bolts and leaves those in the rock as if usable, with good hangers that can be clipped, he/she/it is inviting climbers to clip bolts that he/she/it has drastically weakened. If BCPOS would allow climbing without attempting to sabotage it, then there would be no potential liability.