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This is the longest continuous piece of ice up there. It is in the gully on the left side.
P1. Go up the cascade with short bulges to the gully.
P2. Continue up the gully to trees or spots under headwall. These pitches can be combined.
P3. Finish up the headwall, you can pick your grade here from EZ to WI4-.
Belay on bolts found on the sides of a boulder on the top.
Eds. This has been named the Bowling Alley, Scottish Gully, Lincoln Falls Major, and probably many other things. This original post will serve to represent the obvious, long, ice gully.
Screws & slings for tree belays.
Gareth being intimidated by the pillar. 11/02/02.
Left hand side of central icefall. 11/02/02.
Ed McDonald clearing the first cascade on P1 of Sc...
Mount Lincoln ice in late November 2004
Newt's on 11/22/04
Climbing Mt. Lincoln (Right side 2/27/05) in fat c...
In the gully
Look -- An exit from the bowling alley; ...
BETA PHOTO: Taken Dec 14, 2006 after a great day of climbing. ...
Here's a treat that just came in. Just uphill from...
Pure Alley Headwall!!
Ian Wolfe - Gettin nasty with it!
If we only knew...
Lohmeier, playing in some late season ice on the h...
Chicken Screamer(tm) testing on Scottish Gully. P...
Top of the Gully.
BETA PHOTO: Scottish Gully (the way we climbed it) WI3-.
Looking back at the reservoir.
Pete Lardy completing the last pitch on the headwa...
Second pitch in 2004.
Mariusz warm up before Mt.Rainier, 06-29-10.
|Comments on Scottish Gully
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 26, 2002
Never could quite understand the distinct lines from Roberts' "Colorado Ice." There is a nice variation that we followed David Sweet up. Once you get into the lower angle stuff of the main flow about 110 feet up, look L and find an inviting thinnish, lower-angled runnel in a corner. 35 feet. Not hard but just plain fun. Pins, stubbies, or threads for pro.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 20, 2002
Climbed at Lincoln Falls Monday, November 18. Ice was in thick both the left and right main flows. Big pillar to the far right was all the way down and thick, but with a visible horizontal fracture at mid height. Terrific conditions. Very fat.
|By Edward Corder II|
Aug 20, 2003
There is a great mixed line climbers right of the piller pictured below.It is all trad & a bit ran out in the start. One of the best mixed lines around the area. Bring stoppers & small cams. There is a fixed pin 12ft off the ground, this is your first piece of gear. The rest of the climb is a splitter steep crack to a ice curtian finnish. Most climbers toprope this mixed line for good reason. M-7, WI5, 3 stars.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 15, 2004
As of Saturday, the ice was coming in great. The slabs on the far right were conected and the area to the far left had created a nice curtain and a couple of exceptional pillars. However, it was so crowded that would definitely recomend getting there on a week day or getting an early start.
|By Scott Rogers|
From: Moab, UT
Apr 3, 2006
I like this route a lot.... One of my favorites.
Jul 30, 2007
A really fun route which is mostly easier than WI3. I've been up there a few times over the past couple of years now and have learned a few lessons. 1. Bring a belay jacket. The wind gets moving up there and it gets cold while your waiting around or belaying. 2. This is a very popular route and more so on the weekends. The gully flushes every bit of debris right down to the bottom so set up accordingly and don't get angry with the folks above you. This is inherent to this type of route. 3. In very cold conditions the road leading in can get VERY slippery. Be sure you can get back out before you go in. We didn't get any cell reception up there.