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Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Center Flow Slab 
Chosspector Corner (WW) T 
Diamond Couloir, The 
Heche En Gringolandia (WW) T 
Jensen's Crack 
Left Crag Mixed Lines T 
Lincoln Falls Minor T 
Low Angle Left Slab T 
Main Flow Right T 
Not in the Brochure? 
Panty Peeler (WW) T 
Random Mixed 
Scottish Ale? TR 
Scottish Gully T 
Sheep Skin Protection (WW) T 
Sickle on a Stick (aka Newt's Veil) T,TR 
Sleepy Hallow T 
Thin Pin (WW) T 
Traffic Avoidance aka Left of Scottish Gully T 
Wasi'chu Gallows (WW) T 
Unsorted Routes:

Scottish Gully 

WI3

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 3 pitches
Original: WI3 [details]
FA: ?
Season: Fall-Spring
Page Views: 7,378
Submitted By: Peter Holcombe on Oct 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
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BETA PHOTO: Taken Dec 14, 2006 after a great day of climbing. ...

Description 

This is the longest continuous piece of ice up there. It is in the gully on the left side.

P1. Go up the cascade with short bulges to the gully.

P2. Continue up the gully to trees or spots under headwall. These pitches can be combined.

P3. Finish up the headwall, you can pick your grade here from EZ to WI4-.

Belay on bolts found on the sides of a boulder on the top.

Eds. This has been named the Bowling Alley, Scottish Gully, Lincoln Falls Major, and probably many other things. This original post will serve to represent the obvious, long, ice gully.

Protection 

Screws & slings for tree belays.


Photos of Scottish Gully Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the Gully.
Top of the Gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: April 5 2014, deep snow covering mid-section of ro...
BETA PHOTO: April 5 2014, deep snow covering mid-section of ro...
Rock Climbing Photo: Left hand side of central icefall. 11/02/02.
Left hand side of central icefall. 11/02/02.
Rock Climbing Photo: Gareth being intimidated by the pillar. 11/02/02.
Gareth being intimidated by the pillar. 11/02/02.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ed McDonald clearing the first cascade on P1 of Sc...
Ed McDonald clearing the first cascade on P1 of Sc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lohmeier, playing in some late season ice on the h...
Lohmeier, playing in some late season ice on the h...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mount Lincoln ice in late November 2004
Mount Lincoln ice in late November 2004
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back at the reservoir.
Looking back at the reservoir.
Rock Climbing Photo: Newt's on 11/22/04
Newt's on 11/22/04
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping the gully.
Rapping the gully.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing Mt. Lincoln (Right side 2/27/05) in fat c...
Climbing Mt. Lincoln (Right side 2/27/05) in fat c...
Rock Climbing Photo: The central icefall, about WI 4. 11/02/02
The central icefall, about WI 4. 11/02/02
Rock Climbing Photo: In the gully
In the gully
Rock Climbing Photo: Chicken Screamer(tm) testing on Scottish Gully.  P...
Chicken Screamer(tm) testing on Scottish Gully. P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Look -- An exit from the bowling alley; John, let'...
Look -- An exit from the bowling alley; John, let'...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scottish Gully (the way we climbed it) WI3-.
BETA PHOTO: Scottish Gully (the way we climbed it) WI3-.
Rock Climbing Photo: Second pitch in 2004.
Second pitch in 2004.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete Lardy completing the last pitch on the headwa...
Pete Lardy completing the last pitch on the headwa...
Rock Climbing Photo: Here's a treat that just came in. Just uphill from...
Here's a treat that just came in. Just uphill from...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mariusz warm up before Mt.Rainier, 06-29-10. Photo...
Mariusz warm up before Mt.Rainier, 06-29-10. Photo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pure Alley Headwall!!
Pure Alley Headwall!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch!
Last pitch!
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian Wolfe - Gettin nasty with it!  If we only knew...
Ian Wolfe - Gettin nasty with it! If we only knew...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice, simple multi-pitch.
Nice, simple multi-pitch.

Show All 24 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Scottish Gully Add Comment
Show which comments
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 26, 2002

Never could quite understand the distinct lines from Roberts' "Colorado Ice." There is a nice variation that we followed David Sweet up. Once you get into the lower angle stuff of the main flow about 110 feet up, look L and find an inviting thinnish, lower-angled runnel in a corner. 35 feet. Not hard but just plain fun. Pins, stubbies, or threads for pro.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 20, 2002

Climbed at Lincoln Falls Monday, November 18. Ice was in thick both the left and right main flows. Big pillar to the far right was all the way down and thick, but with a visible horizontal fracture at mid height. Terrific conditions. Very fat.
By Edward Corder II
Aug 20, 2003

There is a great mixed line climbers right of the piller pictured below.It is all trad & a bit ran out in the start. One of the best mixed lines around the area. Bring stoppers & small cams. There is a fixed pin 12ft off the ground, this is your first piece of gear. The rest of the climb is a splitter steep crack to a ice curtian finnish. Most climbers toprope this mixed line for good reason. M-7, WI5, 3 stars.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 15, 2004

As of Saturday, the ice was coming in great. The slabs on the far right were conected and the area to the far left had created a nice curtain and a couple of exceptional pillars. However, it was so crowded that would definitely recomend getting there on a week day or getting an early start.
By Scott Rogers
From: Moab, UT
Apr 3, 2006

I like this route a lot.... One of my favorites.
By T-Bob
Jul 30, 2007
rating: WI3-

A really fun route which is mostly easier than WI3. I've been up there a few times over the past couple of years now and have learned a few lessons. 1. Bring a belay jacket. The wind gets moving up there and it gets cold while your waiting around or belaying. 2. This is a very popular route and more so on the weekends. The gully flushes every bit of debris right down to the bottom so set up accordingly and don't get angry with the folks above you. This is inherent to this type of route. 3. In very cold conditions the road leading in can get VERY slippery. Be sure you can get back out before you go in. We didn't get any cell reception up there.
By J Antin
From: Golden, CO
Nov 30, 2014
rating: WI3-

Super fun day @ Lincoln Falls today, certainly not "packed", but there were about 14 cars to hit the lot throughout the day.

I did notice 4 parties rappel the Scottish Gully during peak traffic hours.

I expressed my confusion to a friend who suggested: "Maybe they don't know about the walk-off?"

So. From now on, there is a walk-off to climber's RIGHT. It takes less than 5 minutes! Please do not make the Scottish Gully more than of a "Bowling Alley" than it has to be, especially on a busy Sunday.

If you need step-by-step directions of the walk-off, please PM me. I'd be happy to talk you through it.

J
By sepideh kianbakht
From: Tehran, Iran
Feb 8, 2016

Hello,

I have lost one pair of Black Diamonds which I had rented from the school on 1/31/2016 when I was climbing in this area. Please help to find it.

Thank you,

Sepideh

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