Scottish Gully 

Never could quite understand the distinct lines from Roberts' "Colorado Ice." There is a nice variation that we followed David Sweet up. Once you get into the lower angle stuff of the main flow about 110 feet up, look L and find an inviting thinnish, lower-angled runnel in a corner. 35 feet. Not hard but just plain fun. Pins, stubbies, or threads for pro.

Climbed at Lincoln Falls Monday, November 18. Ice was in thick both the left and right main flows. Big pillar to the far right was all the way down and thick, but with a visible horizontal fracture at mid height. Terrific conditions. Very fat.

There is a great mixed line climbers right of the piller pictured below.It is all trad & a bit ran out in the start. One of the best mixed lines around the area. Bring stoppers & small cams. There is a fixed pin 12ft off the ground, this is your first piece of gear. The rest of the climb is a splitter steep crack to a ice curtian finnish. Most climbers toprope this mixed line for good reason. M-7, WI5, 3 stars.

As of Saturday, the ice was coming in great. The slabs on the far right were conected and the area to the far left had created a nice curtain and a couple of exceptional pillars. However, it was so crowded that would definitely recomend getting there on a week day or getting an early start.

I like this route a lot.... One of my favorites.

A really fun route which is mostly easier than WI3. I've been up there a few times over the past couple of years now and have learned a few lessons. 1. Bring a belay jacket. The wind gets moving up there and it gets cold while your waiting around or belaying. 2. This is a very popular route and more so on the weekends. The gully flushes every bit of debris right down to the bottom so set up accordingly and don't get angry with the folks above you. This is inherent to this type of route. 3. In very cold conditions the road leading in can get VERY slippery. Be sure you can get back out before you go in. We didn't get any cell reception up there.