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Scottish Ale? 

M6

   
Type:  TR, Mixed, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus: M6-7 [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,583
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jan 1, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Mixed corner route - beta photo1

Medium hex for t...

Description 

This is an old TR line ~M6 that perhaps someone bold has led. Its real name is unknown to me, so I gave it a temporary name until someone knowledgeable pipes up. Nonetheless, it is a fun line which winds up being a touch more challenging than it looks.

From all the rock scratch marks, there are bunches of different starts available depending on the ice. From some pictures, it looks like it can be pure ice for the first half. Or, you can start to the right in a sort of chimney. Take this up to a sort of stance below the shallow dihedral. This is where it gets more challenging. Scratch up the corner with occasional tool and crampon placements on the dribble that can form on the left wall. Up higher, there is a longer reach to the double stein pulls just before popping over the itty, bitty roof.

This is a good pump for a little route.


Location 

This is on the left side of the lower right cliff band. It starts to the left of the 2 bolt mixed line which is left of the hanging pillar.


Protection 

2 bolt anchor above provides a good TR anchor. You can lead up easier ice to the right and then angle left to these bolts. Leading this would probably require good thin crack skills for protecting, maybe pins.



Photos of Scottish Ale? Slideshow Add Photo
Mixed corner - beta photo2.
BETA PHOTO: Mixed corner - beta photo2.
I do believe locals refer to this face and corner climb at Scottish Ale (WI5 M5). The face and corner variations work up and to the right. It takes stubbies and small TCUs, and pins if you choose. Actually climbs very well. The exit has great corner cracks as you stem with feet.
I do believe locals refer to this face and corner ...
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