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Scott Peak

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Northeast Face 
Sunset Glacier 

Scott Peak  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,828'
Location: 63.3417, -150.1254 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,369
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Garner on Feb 12, 2009
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Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

Scott Peak sits in the central Alaska Range, 10 miles by air from the Toklat River crossing on the Denali Park Road. It is most often approached from the Sunset Glacier, to its west. Routes on the peak range from 40 degree basic snow climbing to technical routes of 70 degree ice. There is some potential for new routes on Scott, but currently only 3 or 4 have been climbed and documented.

Getting There 

From the Denali Park entrance, take a camper bus and ask to be dropped off around the Toklat River (depending on the intended route). The approach hike in is roughly 12 miles.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.5 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Scott Peak
The NE face of Scott Peak.

Northeast Face WI1 Steep Snow  AK : Denali National Park : Scott Peak
The route is the steepest part of the NE face rising up from the Scott glacier (unofficial name) at the head of Denali's Unit 10. Steep snow (50 degrees) mixed with some steep alpine ice (70 degrees) create a beautiful route well worth attempting. The crux is the final move - getting over/through a cornice onto the summit. Otherwise most of the route is simul-climbable...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Comments on Scott Peak Add Comment
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By cerickson
From: Portland, OR
Jun 3, 2009
If you're approaching the standard (Sunrise/Sunset) way, get off the bus at Eielson Visitor Center
By EMT
May 9, 2010
2nd that " get off the bus at Eielson Visitor Center". it's way shorter then the toklat way, but then again it depends on what route you're after.