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Medlicott Dome, Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lighter Side, The S 
Loco Yokel T 
Scorpion T 
Super Chicken T 
Wailing Wall T 
Yawn, The T 


YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Dale Bard & Bob Locke - July, 1976
Page Views: 1,650
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 29, 2008

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  • Description 

    This is an awesome route that has a lot of variety: steep jugs to start, thin slab, a beautiful crack, and a roof. New ASCA hardware makes it a very safe outing as well.

    Begin just left of The Yawn corner and the obvious Wailing Wall roof.

    P1: Monkey out left on jugs, then stand up to clip two bolts. Pull up into a corner, clip a high bolt, step down and perform a thin traverse left. Finally, finish with super-thin slab moves up to the anchor. 5.11b, 100'.

    P2: Thin moves off the belay past two bolts to an easy, fun crack. Bolted belay. 5.11b, 80'.

    P3: Cruxy moves up a steep crack ease after a bit. Finally, pull a fun, airy roof above and traverse left to the anchor. Lower off this anchor back to the belay and TR your second up. 5.10d, 90'.

    Rap from the anchor below the third pitch with two ropes back to the belay ledge at the start of the route.


    Draws & slings, a single set of cams to #1 Camalot. Wires.

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