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Scorpion King 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Andy Peter, Steve Kanoza 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,521
Submitted By: Vincent Greene on Dec 24, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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First Pitch. "S.K. NOT LIMBO"

Description 

Pitch 1 is 5.7, Pitch 2 has a "hard 5.11" move near the top.This is a bit less than 100 yards closer to the road than Limbomaniac and the other bolted face routes on the lefthand wall. Look for a low angled start around the corner to the left of Meteor Shower. Follow the bolts. Watch out for loose rock -- the belayer should probably move out of the drop zone before the leader reaches a chossy vertical section about halfway up the first pitch. Feel free to add details about the second pitch, I did not lead it.

Protection 

6 bolts and chains on first pitch. bolts and chains on second pitch.


Photos of Scorpion King Slideshow Add Photo
Overhead of new routes at Hairpin
BETA PHOTO: Overhead of new routes at Hairpin
Just past the crux on pitch one.
Just past the crux on pitch one.
Scorpian King
Scorpian King
on the first pitch
on the first pitch
Topo of the first pitch of Scorpion King
Topo of the first pitch of Scorpion King
Suzanne finishes up her lead on the first pitch of 'Scorpion King'
Suzanne finishes up her lead on the first pitch of...

Comments on Scorpion King Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 15, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 25, 2004

Second pitch starts in a chossy corner. The bolts are placed poorly as the climber is in the corner, not on the face. Loose rock leads to a steep overhang. It is about 11b if you go straight up past the small crimp, but is really only 10c or d if you traverse left to the arete. A lot of climbing for a small section of good rock and fun moves. I pulled two poot slings off bolts at the roof.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 25, 2004

To add to my comment above I would like to mention that if you are going to put so much time and money into putting up routes, please clean off the reallyloose rock. It is lame to leave loose blocks on overly protected face climbs. Why have the bolts every 4 feet if there is a greater threat of killing your belayer with a loose block? With that said, I am grateful for the new routes, I just hope these guys would start being a little more sensible.
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 27, 2004

As far as bolt placement, I only place bolts where the rock is solid. I tested out the entire belay area at the top of the first pitch.Where I placed the bolts was the only solid rock for secure chain anchor placement.I preferred the anchors to be out on the face, but that was not an option, due to hollow sounding rock.The route was cleaned during development, I had lead the route, and believed the second pitch is clear of death blocks.(see all the debris at the bottom of the climb)Are the "rocks" you are referring to: under the overhang?I have tested all of those flakes and blocks by hammering and pulling on them.They seem secure, and are not pulled, or stepped on by climbers leading, or top roping the route.I do not appreciate your comments regarding anchor placements, for they are all placed accordingly, and are in secure rock.Thank you for your input, and I have gone back out there today, to try to crowbar off "things" that you seemed concerned about, but due to hikers in the canyon, I just closed the second pitch, by removing the first bolt hanger on the second pitch.The first pitch remains open.Thank you again, Andy Peters.12-27-04
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Dec 28, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I did the first pitches of two of these routes a week ago. I think they just need to get some traffic to break off some of the smaller loose stuff, and they'll be as good as the existing hairpin turn routes.
By Anonymous Coward
Jan 3, 2005

The comment about bolt placements did not mean that bolts are placed in poor rock. The bolts are solid. The climb however, follows poor and hollow rock. I only questioned establishing a route with so many bolts in poor rock when there is so much undeveloped good rock. In my opinion, it is one thing to do a ground-up, traditional style route through choss, but this route sports 20 or so bolts and will not clean up well. Regardless, first ascentionists should, and will, do what they want though.
By Luke Bertelsen
Apr 7, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

I was only able to lead the fist pitch of this climb. Unfortunatey the first two hangers on the second pitch were removed. Having read the comments surrounding this route I believe this was over some issues of loose rock. I myself thought that it looked as if the first ascentionists and subsequent climbers have done a good job of "cleaning" this climb. As anyone who climbs lower on Mt.Lemmon knows, loose rock is not all that uncommon. Heads up to the belayer and be aware of what you are grabbing for and stepping on. As is, with the second pitch closed, I would not climb this route again.
By andypeters
Jun 15, 2005

Found a quickdraw near the top of this climb today, will gladly return it to the rightful owner. Please send an E-mail to describe it. andypeters520@aol.com if no response please E-mail Alp tor@ aol.com. Will be changing E-# June 30th.
By andypeters
Aug 31, 2005

Scorpion King 2nd pitch is now open! When the weather cools a bit several of the originally placed bolts will be moved. Also there is a 5.10 variation with 3 bolts that goes left to the chains.
By Don Laury
Jan 5, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Not a bad climb. Nice warmup for the other climbs in the area. Mostly 5.6 slab climbing with a 5.7 crux move just before the anchors (as a tall person, 6'1",I didn't notice it as a crux, seemed the same as the rest, but all my shorter climbing partners thought it was a more difficult section than the rest). Well protected. I only did the first pitch, didn't see any bolts for a second pitch and I was not aware that there was one at the time I climbed it. First pitch at least seems pretty clean now. Climb is actually located around the corner from the two other new climbs in the area, not right next to them as the drawing indicates. Since Hairpin can have the tendency to draw a crowd, I think these new moderate routes are a welcome addition. Thank you, to the guys who put it up.
By Jimbo
Sep 26, 2006

Andy did this route again last week with the preacher man. The top pitch is no harder than .11a maybe 11b if your short. Just trend left and it's one move to good holds. Both pitches are cleaning up nicely with traffic. This is a good addition to the hairpin.
By A.P.T.
From: Truckee,Ca
Sep 26, 2006

The existing bolt line on the 2nd pitch crux was originally meant to be a variation. The original 2 bolts to the right of the existing line were removed because they were to close. This is the only bolt line found at the top now and I believe it offers more climbing. The line is more like 5.10+ or 5.11a which is more correct than 5.10. I do find a lot of bail biners on this route and on "Meteor Shower." I believe it would be much safer for any climber to aid the crux of these two climbs if they have problems leading them "RATHER THAN LOWERING ON 1 BOLT."
By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 4, 2006
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

We did all three routes along this wall plus the two newer routes on Righthand Wall, and I think this one had the LEAST loose rock. It must be cleaning up well. The bolt line on the first pitch does tend to urge you right while the holds are left, but it's pretty obvious you wouldn't want to be clipping bolts drilled into the chossy stuff you're climbing. I think it's well bolted. The first pitch is nothing special but it is well worth it for the second, which is varied and not easy even outside the crux. There was a bail beaner on it today (12/4/06), so people aren't heeding Andy's advice to aid through, although clipping the bolt at the crux might be tough for shorter climbers. The second pitch is the best pitch on this wall.
By David K
Jan 30, 2009

Did the first pitch today. Nothing special really but I want to get back and try the 2nd.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 14, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

There is no 11c on this route. There might be some 11a but it is probably just 10d at the top. Did this route today for the first time. Did it as one long pitch with long runners. Pretty fun. There are 3 sets of anchors which is weird but it allows folks to do the first two pitches and not climb the short 10d headwall. Bolts are close enough that you could yard on draws to reach the 3rd set of anchors. I had pretty low expectations and I had a lot of fun climbing it.
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 5, 2010
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This route has been a right of passage for many of my friends. Having been the first lead for almost a dozen of us I think it's an ideal first lead. It's all there and the route is bolted well, very safe, great clipping stances and so on but the crux is still up high and a committed one move wonder that'll get your heart beating on lead.
By NickMartel
From: Tucson, Arizona
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

8 well placed/spaced bolts. Crux is bulge and headwall above from bolts 6-8 but is well protected, taking the ramp/ledge left makes it easier than going straight up. The first few moves are also harder then the rest of the route.
By Myk
From: tucson, az
Dec 18, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pulled off a football size rock with lots of chalk on it on the first pitch. Just because others have been using a hold doesn't mean it's always solid. Added Mussy hooks to 1st set belay anchors. 2nd pitch has fun move around roof. Be careful of Z clipping 2nd pitch. Probably could skip about 1/2 the clips and be fine.
By Nick Henscheid
Apr 11, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed this by headlamp last night - didn't come across the chains at the top of P1 (I probably missed them), so I apparently made it half way up P2 before realizing I needed to bail. Exciting!
By Brian Stetson
Apr 15, 2013

I disagree withe the 5.11c rating. I consider myself a 5.10 climber on toprope. I've thrashed up a few 5.11s on toprope. Leading 5.9+ scares the ever living hell put of me and I had no problem with this route. the "5.11" move at the top I would call 5.9+ at best and it's super well protected!