Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Fringe Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cactus Flower T 
Dunn's T 
Neutron Dance T 
Octopus T 
Scorpion Corner T 
Sting, The T 
Warren's Left-Leaning Crack T 
Warren's Roof Crack T 
Worm Hole T 
Unsorted Routes:

Scorpion Corner 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Steve Hong, Jeff Achey, 1982
Page Views: 179
Submitted By: Steven Lucarelli on May 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Scorpion Corner looks hard from the ground and its looks are not deceiving! From a large belay ledge climb a hands and thin hands broken crack far to the left of the main corner. Bumping a #1 Camalot up this section and then removing it once on the ledge above is highly recommended due to rope drag. Walk right to the main corner and start up overhanging thin hands that quickly open up to tight #3 Camalots. Continue up the wide hands corner through a few bulges for about 50' to a stance below the large roof. Spend some time recovering and trying to figure out how to start the roof traverse which starts as 4.5 Camalots and pinches down from there. I'll save the specific beta for the roof but laybacking is key. Good Luck!

Location 

Far to the right, outside the Fringe of Death Canyon. Look for a wide roof crack that pinches down at the lip in a large left facing corner. There are a handful of routes on this section of wall.

Protection 

Camalots: (2)#1, (4 or 5)#3, (1)3.5, (1) 4.5 or new #5, (1 or 2) new #4. There is an old Steve Hong anchor above the roof that is built out of a hex and a stopper. I added a two bolt anchor to the left that keeps the rope out of the roof crack and has two rap-ring hangers.


Comments on Scorpion Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -