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BETA PHOTO: The climb.
This is the obvious, left-leaning, hand crack in the middle of the Southwest side of the Canyon Block. The short crux is about 3/4 of the way up, and starts once you leave the good feet and commit to the crack. It has good gear, good rock, and nice moves, and topping out is fun.
This route starts right of a large, right-facing dihedral on good holds that lead to an obvious, hand crack in the middle of the Southwest side of the block. To retrieve gear, the top is easily accessed by the North side.
Bring a couple of #1-3 sized Camalots and some blue to red sized Metolius cams. You may need additional cams, some locking biners, and webbing to set up a natural anchor on a tree or some of the cracks found at the top of the block. A 50 meter rope will easily get you back to the ground.
By George Bracksieck
Apr 6, 2014
A two-coldshut anchor is immediately to the left, at the top of the crack, just below the rim.
By Jay Eggleston
Sep 26, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The end of the crack is the most difficult. The crack pushes you to the left when you want to jam straight in. The cold shut anchor would be good after a lead, but to top rope it is easier to set an anchor above.