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Routes in Left of Venus Wall (The Bradley White Wall)
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Bradley White Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Burned T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Cornered T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dirtiest Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Edge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Fire Proof T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Flame T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Kindling T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X |
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Morning Star T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Schist a side T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Scorched T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Singed T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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Three Way Tie T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bradley White Nov. 2010 |
| Page Views: | 784 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | bradley white on Nov 4, 2010 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Route Description
This climb was free soloed and begins around the corner west from The Dirtiest Climb. It starts up the cracks on the left hand wall and continues up this crack until there are face moves right towards the gully with the dead burnt pine tree. Make right leg smear on face opposite the left gully side. Move up left side with left foot and right leg smearing until block ceiling is reached (crux). Reach over ceiling so that you can pull over to top out onto the tree ledge. From the tree ledge join 'Schist a side' a short distance and go right onto the buttress and go up the outside left wall to face slab. Go up (nuisance dead pine branches and trees are gone that were once in the way of the rock moves) slab until below the big dirty slab(30ft).
Climb the slab in the middle above a tree below the center wall that is hollow at its base. Follow the line of rough brown clean rock as it snake curves through the slab dirt and pine needles until directly left of pine tree . Cross over right on white rock to get to a rest ledge. Escape right is available here. I ascended directly up from here off of the slab until I could finish left center right side of the slab. From here I walked far right to small wall of blocks. I climbed the blocks to a final slab and it was finished.
Go higher up from this rock slab find the big white rock on the back east side of it. Down climb right of this rock and keep going right until you can go down reasonably or don't cross the stream and go uphill until there's a trail reached that taken eastward will descend to the 'Orange Crush' step trail. Don't follow the stream down ever! Cross it and further down you will be above the Main Cliff and then east is the step ladder trail of 'Orange Crush'. This descent requires not walking to far down before the ladder trail. Familiarity with the area above the ladder trail would be useful.
It was over all a good rock climbing experience. A bit of, 'I'm loosing confidence in myself' 2/3 of the way up on the second pitch of slab, face climbing. I bailed out on doing the third slab/face pitch. I had had enough. Glad I did. There is too much dirt before the next ledge. Route finding other climbs is doable. Getting on all of them on the east side of the dirty slab is terribly difficult because of the dirt/leaf slope before the rock steepens away from it.
Climb the slab in the middle above a tree below the center wall that is hollow at its base. Follow the line of rough brown clean rock as it snake curves through the slab dirt and pine needles until directly left of pine tree . Cross over right on white rock to get to a rest ledge. Escape right is available here. I ascended directly up from here off of the slab until I could finish left center right side of the slab. From here I walked far right to small wall of blocks. I climbed the blocks to a final slab and it was finished.
Go higher up from this rock slab find the big white rock on the back east side of it. Down climb right of this rock and keep going right until you can go down reasonably or don't cross the stream and go uphill until there's a trail reached that taken eastward will descend to the 'Orange Crush' step trail. Don't follow the stream down ever! Cross it and further down you will be above the Main Cliff and then east is the step ladder trail of 'Orange Crush'. This descent requires not walking to far down before the ladder trail. Familiarity with the area above the ladder trail would be useful.
It was over all a good rock climbing experience. A bit of, 'I'm loosing confidence in myself' 2/3 of the way up on the second pitch of slab, face climbing. I bailed out on doing the third slab/face pitch. I had had enough. Glad I did. There is too much dirt before the next ledge. Route finding other climbs is doable. Getting on all of them on the east side of the dirty slab is terribly difficult because of the dirt/leaf slope before the rock steepens away from it.
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