Scoot Your Muffin 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b [details] |
| FA: | Gary Beil, 1996 |
| Submitted By: | Jeremy Steck on Jul 19, 2009 |
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Description Start slightly to the right of a thin tree on good holds, passing 2 bolts, to reach a slabby section. At the base of the slabby section, head up and left using small but positive holds and high steps (technical crux). After clipping the top bolt on the slab, head up into the overhang. After a couple jugs, you'll hit a reachy move to another jug as you pull the lip of the overhang (redpoint crux). After you pull the roof, it's smooth sailing from here.
Location This is the next to last sport line that you will encounter as you walk right along the Orange Oswald Wall.
Protection 7 bolts, shuts.
| Comments on Scoot Your Muffin |
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By jarthur
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 1, 2010
| For some reason this climb is always open. That's ok, because when everything else is taken this route is open and in the shade all day long. It may not have the length, nor the consistency as the other routes on the Orange Oswald, but it is super steep for 5.10 and has great moves moving through this section. This route also stays pretty dry in the rain, and dries quickly if it does get wet. Bouldery, slabby, steep, to face climbing, what's not to love?
The newest guide states, "This is what happens when the bolting goes wrong." Maybe this is referring to the potential for a bad fall on the middle slab move, but I find that move fine since the friction on the wall is very good for smearing. It could also be referring to the bolt that was hammered into the wall. |
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