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Scoopin' Booty
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.8 from 5 votes
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Andrew Megas-Russell and Craig Muderlak (at least we think) |
Page Views: | 1,609 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Craig Muderlak on Feb 2, 2012 |
Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This Route is located on Ghost Dome at Cochise Stronghold, Arizona.
P1 - 5.9/100ft - A beautiful 100 ft. crack system of varying size ending at some chicken heads immediately below a low-angle roof. Build an anchor below the roof for pitch one with small gear.
P2- 5.10- 80ft, Work through the crux pulling over the roof and into a beautiful finger crack. Follow the crack for about 80 feet, then trend right to a large ledge. After getting to the ledge, traverse left for about 15 feet via a horizontal crack system. Build an anchor with large cams. below obvious chicken heads.
P3 - 5.9+, ~75ft. Pull through steep face above on massive delicate chicken heads for about 15 ft. Campus/mantle out left around arête to gain a small stance. Climb the shallow right facing corner above which is protected by gear and two bolts. Belay on ledge above using small cams in a crack left of a bush.
P4 - 5th class, 40ft. To gain summit, climb unprotected 5.easy slab above using good edges. If the second feels uncomfortable soloing up behind the leader, a belay could be built on the backside of the summit in a shallow horizontal crack with a couple large cams. The rap bolts could potentially be used as an optional anchor, although the bolts are placed far back.
P1 - 5.9/100ft - A beautiful 100 ft. crack system of varying size ending at some chicken heads immediately below a low-angle roof. Build an anchor below the roof for pitch one with small gear.
P2- 5.10- 80ft, Work through the crux pulling over the roof and into a beautiful finger crack. Follow the crack for about 80 feet, then trend right to a large ledge. After getting to the ledge, traverse left for about 15 feet via a horizontal crack system. Build an anchor with large cams. below obvious chicken heads.
P3 - 5.9+, ~75ft. Pull through steep face above on massive delicate chicken heads for about 15 ft. Campus/mantle out left around arête to gain a small stance. Climb the shallow right facing corner above which is protected by gear and two bolts. Belay on ledge above using small cams in a crack left of a bush.
P4 - 5th class, 40ft. To gain summit, climb unprotected 5.easy slab above using good edges. If the second feels uncomfortable soloing up behind the leader, a belay could be built on the backside of the summit in a shallow horizontal crack with a couple large cams. The rap bolts could potentially be used as an optional anchor, although the bolts are placed far back.
Location
Ghost Dome, Cochise Stronghold, AZ. The start is about 30 feet right of "Time 'll Tell" in an obvious left facing corner crack system. The descent is the same as "Time 'll Tell."
Protection
Gear: standard rack up from a green c-3 camalot up to a #4 camalot. Some smaller nuts are helpful for the first anchor and a number #4 nut wedged between some chicken heads is crucial for the crux at the beginning of the second pitch (an offset nut works well). I would recommend taking doubles of from .5 to #2 camolot. The #4 is primarily for the anchor on the top of pitch two and you could probably do without it. This route combines with "Time 'll Tell" for the third pitch where there are two bolts.
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