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 ADVANCED
Second Tier
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chem Trail T 
Drunken Pilot T 
Ejector Seat T 
Little Black Box T 
Scoop Up a Little Sky T 
Stand By T 
Stress Fracture T 
Touch and Go T 

Scoop Up a Little Sky 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: A. Pon and E. VanDoren, 2001
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Ubiquitous butt-shot, but it shows what the start ...

Description 

Of the routes that we did on Pilot Knob, this was the best. There are two starts, an 8 (easier) or the 9+ (recommended). To do the 9+ start, head up under a roof to the right of Touch and Go and pull through it on the right side onto a face and past a very large wedged block. Protect this and continue up into a crack system slightly to the right, ending after some horizontals. Clip a single bolt and do the second crux (8+) on face moves to reach a bolted anchor.

Location 

The upper section of Pilot Knob has two distinct climbable rocks. The left one is arrived at from just below, climbing any of the lower tier's pitches. An obvious left-facing corner, Touch and Go, lies just above. Scoop Up a Little Sky climbs a crack system and face just meter or two right around the arete from that corner.

Protection 

A standard rack to 3".


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By Nate Muncy
From: Thornton, CO
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

No bolted anchors, had to lower from stress fracture.
2nd crux by the bolt is 5.9+ as well - thin and tenuous.
Fun.
By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Aug 18, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Nate, I think you've got this one confused with another route if you're saying there are not bolted anchors at the end of this one. There are 2 bolt/hangers at the top of the pillar that this route is on -- they do not have lowering rings however. Easy enough to walk over to Stress Fracture, though.

Also, perhaps some holds have broken off since the Gillett guide came out (as evidenced by "new" exposed rock near the bolt) -- I agree with Nate (if we're talking about the same route) that the section near the bolt is definitely harder than the 5.8+ that Gillett (and Tony B.) gives it.