|The Golden Wall
|Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR
|Fickle Fingers T,TR
|Golden Dream, The T,TR
|Jam On! T,TR
|Scoop Arete T,TR
|Scoop Face T,TR
|Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T
|Skink Redirect TR
|Slot Machine T,TR
|Stinky Americans T,TR
|Super Skink TR
|Time for Therapy T,TR
Climb the far left arete of the large, detached block (left of Scoop Face and Skink), past the "scooped out" section. Crux is there.
Far left arete of large, detached block (left of Scoop Face and Skink). Easy walk-off.
PG pro. Gear-only anchor, around a single block.
May 16, 2011
A blue Alien out right protects the crux.
Dec 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Actually has real "arete" moves -- perhaps the only climb in the Gunks less than 5.10 with them -- moves where you grab the arete edge itself, move across the arete, etc.
As we say so often in the Gunks: Too bad this couldn't be longer.
Crux is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be ready to make a dynamice deadpoint -- to a nice positive hold.
Top-Rope straightforward to set up with a static line and wrap some slings around chockstones in top of rift break like 30ft across top to West, with more slings threaded near the TR anchor as directional. Might also want to place a couple of cams on the arete itself as directionals against swinging off to climber's right.