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Sunshine Wall Routes
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Science Friction 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mike Baker, solo. (5-1-98)
Page Views: 6,533
Submitted By: DaveB on Oct 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Stepping high into right-angling seam (hidden from...

Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...)

Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.

Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course.

Location 

Quarter mile right of the the Naked Lady Boulder (cowboy art). The tallest section of Sunshine Wall. Route (bolted) begins low center of face, right of large boulder, and stays left of obvious crescent/sickle feature mid-wall.

Protection 

12-13 draws. Bolts, drilled pitons.
Anchors.
Double-rope rappel.


Photos of Science Friction Slideshow Add Photo
Getting started.
Getting started.
Here is the run out section to the anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Here is the run out section to the anchors.
Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over th...
BETA PHOTO: Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over th...
Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...
BETA PHOTO: Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...
Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall...
Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall...
Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper ...
Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper ...
Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction M...
Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction M...
Science Friction
Science Friction

Comments on Science Friction Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Dec 7, 2007

Yikes!
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Dec 7, 2007

Under "Protection" add Kevlar vest and helmet!
By Dave Fiorucci
From: Boulder, Colorado
Dec 7, 2007

See bomb proof anchor discussion. mountainproject.com/v/climbing...
By Kevin Rivard
From: Canon City, CO
Aug 9, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Very well protected. crux around the second and third bolts.