Science Friction  5.9+ PG13

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  Mike Baker, solo. (5-1-98) Submitted By:  DaveB on Oct 19, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...

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Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...)

Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.

Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course.

Location 

Quarter mile right of the the Naked Lady Boulder (cowboy art). The tallest section of Sunshine Wall. Route (bolted) begins low center of face, right of large boulder, and stays left of obvious crescent/sickle feature mid-wall.

Protection 

12-13 draws. Bolts, drilled pitons.
Anchors.
Double-rope rappel.

Photos of Science Friction Slideshow

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Stepping high into right-angling seam (hidden from...	BETA PHOTO: Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over th...	Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall...
Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction M...	BETA PHOTO: Here is the run out section to the anchors.	Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper ...
Getting started.	Science Friction