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Sunshine Wall Routes
Routes Sorted
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Brainiac S 
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Learning Curve T,S 
Lesson in Braille S 
Love Hurts T,S 
Melanoma Shuffle S 
Mosquito Coast T,S 
Neopolitan Corner T 
Science Friction S 
Sunset Skydive S 
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Unsorted Routes:

Science Friction 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Baker, solo. (5-1-98)
Page Views: 8,509
Submitted By: DaveB on Oct 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Stepping high into right-angling seam (hidden from...

  • Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/roc... -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A nice route, especially for aspiring slab leaders. (Yes, there are such people...)

    Technical crux is well protected (between bolts 3-5). The "mental" crux begins mid-route at the odd and tricky right-angling seam (sandy in spots). A couple widely-spaced drilled pitons protect this section. Follow seam to top.

    Occasional rests....to reflect and question yourself, of course.

    Location 

    Quarter mile right of the the Naked Lady Boulder (cowboy art). The tallest section of Sunshine Wall. Route (bolted) begins low center of face, right of large boulder, and stays left of obvious crescent/sickle feature mid-wall.

    Protection 

    12-13 draws. Bolts, drilled pitons.
    Anchors.
    Double-rope rappel.


    Photos of Science Friction Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Getting started.
    Getting started.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Here is the run out section to the anchors.
    BETA PHOTO: Here is the run out section to the anchors.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over th...
    BETA PHOTO: Outlined is the bolted route. after you go over th...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...
    BETA PHOTO: Science Friction (5.9+). Sunshine Wall, Arches Nat...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall...
    Here are the anchors with bullet holes in the wall...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper ...
    Terry nearing the last drilled piton of the upper ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction M...
    Erica reaching the bolts on the Science Friction M...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Science Friction
    Science Friction

    Comments on Science Friction Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ladd
    Administrator
    Dec 7, 2007

    Yikes!
    By John Ross
    From: Wasatch Front, UT
    Dec 7, 2007

    Under "Protection" add Kevlar vest and helmet!
    By Dave Fiorucci
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Dec 7, 2007

    See bomb proof anchor discussion. mountainproject.com/v/climbing...
    By Kevin Rivard
    From: Canon City, CO
    Aug 9, 2010
    rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

    Very well protected. crux around the second and third bolts.

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