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East Bluff North Talus Field
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Science Friction  

Hueco: V8- Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Ian Cotter-Brown
Page Views: 967
Submitted By: Remo on Nov 10, 2009

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Vinny on the first move.

Description 

Start with decent side-pulls low and right, gain the textured edge and sack-up and send!

Location 

Top of talus field near cliff band at the upper left side.

Protection 

Pads and spot.


Photos of Science Friction Slideshow Add Photo
Science Friction.
Science Friction.
Sweet line.
Sweet line.
There are all sorts of bad beta photos for this pr...
There are all sorts of bad beta photos for this pr...
Vinny on the lower moves.
Vinny on the lower moves.
Beta.  It's the prominent boulder in the top middl...
Beta. It's the prominent boulder in the top middl...
Getting into it.
Getting into it.
Dobbe
Dobbe
Hitting shitty gaston under the lip.
Hitting shitty gaston under the lip.
And one photo of me sticking the lip, photo Saterm...
And one photo of me sticking the lip, photo Saterm...

Comments on Science Friction Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2014
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 1, 2009

I tried this a time or 2. Probably 2 separate lines. One that uses the arete and face and one that starts near the arete traverses a couple moves to the center and goes up. I tried the latter after building up the sloping hill a bit. Arete would need a bunch of cleaning and probably wouldn't be to hard maybe v3 or 4. Face is hard and painful and will be heady. Traverse isn't bad then you hit a really sharp sidepull thing and a bad right hand 2 finger gaston. Then you would have to hike your feet all the way up and manage to throw all the way to the lip (which is good). Doesnt seem to be any other holds but that. It is directly up from parking space #20 from the left if facing the talus.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 1, 2009

Here's my first try on this thing.

By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 1, 2009

Here is a tutorial of the holds.

By Tradoholic
Dec 2, 2009

I never thought I would say this but...I'm psyched to go bouldering! (Gasp!) Weird, someone slap me.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 2, 2009

I also never expected you to say that! :-) This boulder field is awesome. Really filthy, but awesome. You literally walk straight up from your car. Which is nice. and there's tons of big blocs you can see from the parking lot and can walk straight up and scope them. I like.

P.S. Did I mention that hold is sharp? Cause it's sharp.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Dec 2, 2009

Cool Sweaty, good work! Yeah the upper section seemed like the crux. Big move to the lip.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 12, 2010

Linking this problem is very powerful. It needs to get sent!
By Hemberger
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Nov 4, 2011
rating: V9 7C

Ian sent it today. Peter, Ian and myself figured out the beta, and Ian put it all together for the send. Really, really, really fun movement on the opening moves to a hard move to the lip.
By Ian CB
Nov 5, 2011

Cool problem. Maybe v8 or so.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Nov 5, 2011

Great job Ian! Psyched it finally went down. Do you have a new name for it?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Nov 5, 2011

wow. nice!
By Hemberger
From: Madison, Wisconsin
Aug 4, 2013
rating: V9 7C

Definitely felt harder than an 8. The last move takes some serious timing to unlock. That being said, my favorite of the grade at the lake.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 22, 2014

This is a great problem with excellent movement! I would say it's on the easier side of 8.