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 ADVANCED
Easy Bake Alcove
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Autumnal Bliss S 
Babies in the House S 
Color of Optimism, The S 
Crucial Taunt S 
Lightbulb Not Included S 
Lost in Tuff S 
Schwing! S 
Seashells Shall Shine, The S 
Stray Capacitance S 

Schwing! 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jason Halladay
Page Views: 352
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Mar 22, 2014

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Going big for the sloper through the crux of Schwi...

Description 

Schwing! is the four-bolt direct start to Crucial Taunt, naturally.

Start directly below the anchors for Crucial Taunt and climb up a small pillar to a nice stance on top of the pillar. Get psyched for the fun boulder problem crux above. Crank up past a superb pocket to difficult moves to a sloper on the right. Keep it going for a few more tricky and difficult moves to the fourth bolt and then easier climbing on the steep finish of Crucial Taunt. The crux boulder problem favors taller climbers and is more difficult for shorter climbers, thus the split grade.

There are two bolts out left after the fourth bolt that allow one to finish on Lightbulb Not Included instead if Crucial Taunt is occupied.

Location 

Almost smack in the middle of the alcove heading up the smooth, clean rock.

Protection 

Four bolts on this line and finish with a couple more clips on either Crucial Taunt or Lightbulb Not Included. The third clip is a bit reachy so climbers may want to hang draws on this route from Crucial Taunt


Photos of Schwing! Slideshow Add Photo
Still cruxing on Schwing! but almost to easier gro...
Still cruxing on Schwing! but almost to easier gro...

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By Aaronjames
From: Albuquerque New Mexico
Apr 10, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

5.10 climbing leads to an awkward heel hook to grab a sloper side pull, match and pull over to stand on the heel hook and grab a right hand crimp. A couple technical moves lead to the next clip and 5.9 climbing to the anchors.
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