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The Monkey House
Routes Sorted
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Face Full of Bush 
Monkey Bars 
Monkey Business 
Monkey Pause 
Monkey See, Monkey Do 
Monkey Shine 
New Pollution, The 
Psycho Hose Beast 
Punishment For Shoplifting 
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The 
Schwing Salute 

Schwing Salute 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Alan Nelson and Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 1,443
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 14, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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@ the crux.

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Description 

Schwing Salute begins about 100 foot uphill from the black water streak and Psycho Hose Beast, approximately 50 feet right of the overhang area with Monkey See Monkey Do. The climbing on Schwing starts up in the grey rock where a band of pegmatite crosses horrizontally. Pull up to the first clip on some interesting quartz edges. After several clips, a thin series of horizontal seams delivers the crux at middle 5.11 climbing. It is a bit reachy and a bit thin, but it is a very cool series of moves in the crux. The route feels a little spacey after stepping above the crux seam, but the climbing settles back to 5.9/5.10 moves.

Its good continuity, fun moves, and excellent stone are worth the double stars. This is another fine addition from the Master of Clear Creek, Alan Nelson. The man must be crazy, he just never stops.


Protection 

QDs only. This 70 foot route needs six or seven draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



Photos of Schwing Salute Slideshow Add Photo
The route with bolt locations.
BETA PHOTO: The route with bolt locations.
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By richard magill
Sep 9, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Fun.

By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Mar 27, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Yes, quite fun.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Apr 14, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

The description calls this a 70ft route... I think it's more like 45ft???? Regardless, it's a really fun route on great stone.

By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 16, 2012

Easy for the grade if you find the hidden edge, otherwise you may have some issues. Great movement and rock....

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

This is a really fun route that rewards aggressive and confident moves with great holds. Even after almost 20 years, I can still remember the crux sequence: a blind throw to an invisible (but good) edge. Don't dawdle, or you'll flame out--just GO!

By nate post
Jan 11, 2013

Super fun, definitely left me grinning ear to ear. Just climb like you mean it and you will be rewarded for not hesitating at the crux. It's funny though, after I climbed it, my wife hung the crux half a dozen times until she worked out a move that looked like it would bump it down a couple letter grades. I need to try it again now because of how easy she made the crux look. I know I felt like a strong dumb ox after seeing her beta.

By Dave Alie
From: Golden, CO
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Short but fun. Moderate face climbing to a short boulder problem. Great route for beginning 5.11 leaders.