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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Alan Bartlett & Brett Norum June 1980 |
| Page Views: | 2,095 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Richard Shore on Nov 16, 2015 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Certain Peaks: Access limited from May to October every year
Details
Some of the peaks in this area are restricted (not all). See the Inyo National Forest's Mount Whitney Zone regulations webpage fs.usda.gov/detail/inyo/pas… for current information. Access is usually limited from May to October of every year from the highest elevations of most of the Lone Pine Creek watershed.
Description
Excellent rock, no fixed gear, and a true pointy summit. Pat Brennan listed this route as one of his favorites in all the Sierra. What's not to like?
From the AAJ:
In June Brent Norum and I established the second route on this striking pillar. Starting a short distance right of the Rowell-Jones route, ascend a right-slanting ramp for 200 feet to the base of a large corner. Two crack pitches lead to a huge ledge. From here ascend the right of three possibilities: a curving, “quarter-moon” crack. Above this, the original route is joined. NCCS III, F9.
Alan Bartlett, Buff Alpine Club
The last pitch of the original route follows a splitter leading directly up to the base of the summit block. A wild hand traverse beneath the summit block lands you on its backside. The final 20' summit block has no pro and no anchor. Solo up the chimney and make an exposed step across the gap to get on top of the tiny perch in the sky.
For those seeking something harder, a direct variation P1 starts around the corner to the right of the ramp, following twin cracks in a corner @ 5.10+ (Bob Cable & Eric Tipton 1998)
From the ledge just below the summit, head west for 50-100' and locate a rap sling on a chockstone. One 30M rappel to the north will get you into the gully; follow the easy gully back around to the base.
From the AAJ:
In June Brent Norum and I established the second route on this striking pillar. Starting a short distance right of the Rowell-Jones route, ascend a right-slanting ramp for 200 feet to the base of a large corner. Two crack pitches lead to a huge ledge. From here ascend the right of three possibilities: a curving, “quarter-moon” crack. Above this, the original route is joined. NCCS III, F9.
Alan Bartlett, Buff Alpine Club
The last pitch of the original route follows a splitter leading directly up to the base of the summit block. A wild hand traverse beneath the summit block lands you on its backside. The final 20' summit block has no pro and no anchor. Solo up the chimney and make an exposed step across the gap to get on top of the tiny perch in the sky.
For those seeking something harder, a direct variation P1 starts around the corner to the right of the ramp, following twin cracks in a corner @ 5.10+ (Bob Cable & Eric Tipton 1998)
From the ledge just below the summit, head west for 50-100' and locate a rap sling on a chockstone. One 30M rappel to the north will get you into the gully; follow the easy gully back around to the base.
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