Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
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This is a classic trad route with lots of variety. All natural belay stations so be prepared with cordelette or slings for setting up your belay anchors.
Pitch 1. Start on the left side of the wall and climb over a large flake up cracks that angle up to the left. About 40 feet up, traverse across to the right, downclimbing at one point. Pro is abundent, but be sure to think about protecting your partner. Put a set of opposing pieces at the bottom of the downclimb. Belay at the end of the traverse.
Pitch 2. Climb the handcrack, moving onto the face to the right before you get up under the roof. Some large pieces are useful here. Traverse right 10 feet to the belay.
Pitch 3. Follow the pretty finger crack up and left to the belay on a prow sticking out in front of a tree. Small cams or nuts work well. If you need to bail at this point, traverse right 20 feet to a set of bolted anchors at the start of the Hook.
Pitch 4. Follows a tight chimmney up under the huge Schoolroom roof. Hard to protect with standard pieces and a pretty awkward squeeze. Good pro at the top of the chimney before the easy traverse to the left, passing under the roof. I found the pro on the traverse to be pretty marginal but the climbing is easy. Belay from the tree.
Pitch 5. Climb straight up from the belay tree through a gully with sweet hand cracks. Walk for part of the gully and belay from a big dead tree.
Scramble or rappel down to the belay tree with lots of webbing. From here it's a 60' rap to the "Schoolroom rappel" chains, and then another 90' rap to the ground.
You'll use a range of pro on this route, but a standard rack will work. The second pitch hand crack will take some large cams or hexes, and a big bro would be ideal on the hard to protect fourth pitch chimney, but not strictly necessary. A 60m rope is recommended for the second rappel.
In my mind, a three star route is something that screams to visiting climbers, "Come climb me!" I wouldn't recommend this route as a highlight of Wasatch climbing. In my humble opinion this route's pitches are too short in the sense that you never really feel like you get into a flow, and in the end, while it is worthwhile and has some cool moves, it felt more like a pain in the ass (climbing 40 feet setting up an anchor, another 40 feet set up an anchor, etc.)
John, thanks for your comments. Since I'm still a trad-climbing beginner, I appreciated the variety of the pitches, even that nasty fourth-pitch chimney. The short pitches were nice because my partner and I could actually communicate with each other (except for the final pitch). So for those reasons I'd still give it 3 stars and do it again. It did seem like it took forever to go not very far because of all the belay swapping. I've heard Schoolroom West is very fun and am anxious to try that one.
Did this one last spring break with my then girlfriend. One of my first multipitch trad climbs. Did the whole thing with a set of stoppers, thats it. Sketchy in some spots with that limited pro, especially on the slabby 4th pitch, but not too bad none the less. I think we did a variation called Schoolroom Direct (as I've seen it listed in some guide books). This variation goes directly up the crack on the lower right of the picture above, putting you right in line for the second. This avoids the long needless traverse. A much better start to a great climb in my opinion.
That's right. The Schoolroom Direct Variation is rated 5.7R in Ruckman's book. (The traverse from the top of the crack over to the first Schoolroom belay is runout) I haven't done it, but I've seen people combine this pitch with the 2nd pitch of Schoolroom and it seems to work quite well.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Salt Lake City, UT Mar 20, 2004 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
This route is ok, but not nearly as good as Schoolroom West. Definitely do the direct start(which really isn't R in my opinion), and finish it via the Movei Variation for more fun. Running some pitches together keeps things moving - you could probably link the first three if you do the direct start and can easily do the first two that way.
If u are a solid 5.6 or 5.7 leader this climb is great! Plenty of pro (except for p.4 where there is next to none). Good belays. A nice intro to multipitch climbing. Do the 5.7 direct to make it 3 stars. The "runout" is basically a two move traverse that should get you ready for the forty foot runout traverse on pitch 4.
I'm pretty sure that the traverse from the top of the squeeze chimney to the bottom of p.5 is about forty feet! My memory could be fooling me however. And yeh, there is a place or two to put in some pro but... it's so easy that, for me at least, it wasn't worth the effort.
I believe Vince is trying to say, "There is a 40 foot runout traverse." What I gather from this is there is a 40 foot traverse that has runout, gear can be placed but it is runout. I agree that there is a bit of runout. You place a micro-cam at the end of the squeeze, and then traverse over. Until you get a larger (#2) Camalot in the vertical crack there is nothing else and that is about 20 feet of traversing. So yes, the chance of hurting one's self on a 20 foot pendulum into that west-facing wall is possible, therefore runout is the word. Not hard, not too scary, just kind of runout.
Pitch #4 disqualifies this route from being a 3-star. It's an ugly squeeze chimney, with limited pro, followed by a runout (albeit easy) traverse. We did the route via Schoolroom Direct, resuming the route above belay station 1.
I would classify the pitch 4 chimney more as a low angle off width than a chimney. I found that if stayed out of the crack and just arm barred the slot and the west facing wall it was actually enjoyable.
We did the direct start and the movie variation. The direct start was great. Enjoyable crack with one balance move. The movie variation required a lay back under a roof which was too much for my tall frame and off I pinged.
If you climb the schoolroom direct variation (best option in my opinion, maybe scary for a fedgling 5.7 leader though) and runner well, you can go all teh way to the Hook ledge with a 60M rope. Great long pitch!! Then blast the hook! YEEHAW!
As far as beginner routes go this is a must do. The rock is ultra-sound, there are great ledges, bombmer protection abounds and each pitch has something special. The entire route can be protected safely with a moderate standard rack (including the chimeny and the traverse on the 4th pitch). Please just use care with the belay trees on the route for they add a sence of security and character to a great route.
By Adam Fisher From: sandy, utah Jun 13, 2007 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
This thing is so overrated it seems like I was belaying more than I was climbing.But pitch 2 and 3 were both really good. Pitch 4 I ended up slabing the 2nd half up it was so unappealing. But the mixed climbing techniques were a good reason to climb it slab, crack, chimney traversing, and some good old fashion face climbing, not on my todo list but ok.
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Oct 15, 2007 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
Sweet route! Do the direct start, which doesn't feel R at all, and don't get inside the offwidth on p4. I made the mistake of using a foot way down in there and got dragged in the crack. Ended up whaling my way up with much scraping and grunting. It would have been OK had I racked everything on my left side. Just arm bar and go at it frog style with feet on the face. There is a bomber blue alien halfway up the offwidth, a #2 and a green alien to protect the traverse.
The roof is quite fun with good gear. I was thinking it's rated 5.8. Once in the gully you are right about the brush and dirt. The little chockstone move in the gully is kinda fun also, but not really the best line.
definitly a great climb with a lot of varied climbing. the second and third pitches can be strung together on a 60m offering the meat of the route in one long pitch that definitly gets into a good flow. the traverses are time consuming to protect but they are easy and i think most people run it out a little.
As many others have already said, Schoolroom Direct is the best start. Pitch three (pitch two if you do the direct start) is the best but oh so short.
By Woodson From: Park City, Ut. May 26, 2009 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
Awesome! We did the direct start and 5 pitch, and would be easier to link the first two pitches together. The offwidth is still the hard part for me, and I didn't feel too runout on the traverse, just as Nathan said it's at the the front of the traverse-it's 15 to 20 ft. between pieces-but great feet there.
With the sun setting, my partner and I decided to bail at what I think was the anchor for Mind Blow. If this is the case, I wonder about the finger crack of P3... ie, is it really a beautiful 5.6 finger crack or a 5.8+ R finger flare? Perhaps erosion has finally taken its toll on this route? Yes, this is my first time climbing in Utah so not sure if its just me and my crap route finding skills but I was hard pressed to find a 5.6 finger crack. I felt comfortable with the general grading scheme in LCC, sending Satan's Corner (5.8) without any problems but felt like I got my a$$ handed to my on this 5.6!! Would really appreciate some local knowledge on this climb, and comments on how (poorly) I routed myself through this classic LCC.
By JoshuaP From: San Francisco, CA Jun 9, 2010 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
Got on this yesterday with my wife. I don't see how anyone would skip the Direct start. Great 5.7 crack... but not R. I dropped a super solid nut in at the top of the block/pedestal, slung it, and had it at my feet for the slab move... which was really just a mantle off the dish chickenhead. Good stuff. I combined the first three pitches (60m rope) but went off-route to the right and ended up at the bolt and chain belay ten yards right of the pine tree for the first belay. Had to traverse back to the tree once I brought my wife up and looked at the guidebook.
The off-width/underroof "fourth" pitch was definitely R until the roof. I skipped the two slab bolts on the face and could only find one piece in the off-body crevice (running between the brush and the roof for 40 feet). But the traverse is definitely not R. As you can see in my pic above ("Eloise ready to traverse") I placed at least 3 solid pieces between the off-width and the LCC "Bonzai" tree.
Fun, varied route. I'd love to get back on it and do the 5.8 Movie variation on the final pitch.
By chris21 Jun 12, 2010 rating: 5.85b16VI-15HVS 4c
by far the hardest 5.6 I've ever done, downclimbing traverse on pitch 1, Off-hands to fists and elbows crack with reachy exit right pitch two, tiny finger(I couldn't get my fingers in there) crack pitch three, and miserable off-width pitch 4 there was one spot in the middle of the off-width that I was able to place a .3 BD cam way in in the ledge in the middle of the off-width, and on the fourth pitch traverse I used a .75 at the top of the off-width in the horizontal crack, a #4 BD cam in the wide part of the vertical crack in the middle of the traverse and a stopper in the horizontal 15 feet before the tree
By Donovan From: West Jordan, Utah Oct 8, 2010 rating: 5.75a15V+13MVS 4b
Fun route that I will never forget.
Pitch 1-Mostly simple. Once you reach the half way point you have no hands and slim feet. Pitch 2-Great pitch, I never look forward to it, but it's a good, short, sustained for a time. Great place to set up an anchored belay. Pitch 3-Short again, but fun. Great line for nuts. Opportunity for a short dyno near the end if you look for it. Pitch 4-One of the worst chimney's I've ever climbed. It's too narrow to climb in it, and I had the lingering thought that I was going to slip down and get wedged in it. If it were any more vertical you'd need a full rack of big bro's to protect. Pitch 5-Apart from being completely hammered by this point it was a lot of fun. We'd been in the sun all afternoon and I wasn't looking forward to leading this one. It surprised me. There was pretty good protection most of the way and a beautiful tree at the top to anchor to.
Make sure you know where the rappels are and were you walk off. Beautiful view of Kermit's Wall from up there.
Just finished this route. 5.6 seems to be a great rating even though there are two slightly technical sections. I would not bring a first timer up it. THERE ARE RAP BOLTS UP TOP NOW They leave you hanging at the end of your rope about ten feet off the ground with a 60m, but no problem to down climb. I found two bolted routes at the top one was about 5.9 and the other 5.5ish (the beginning is super easy when you come on to the arete its classic LCC slab). The 5.5ish is a great lead route for the beginner you lead to the top. You can definitely skip a few bolts in the route. Enjoy the climbing season!!!
I felt the chimney was way more runout than Schoolroom Direct; most of my pro (what little I could get) was in suspect rock. Aside from that, the climbing was quite classic and only a 5.6! This would be a great notch in the belt for any beginning leader.
I thought this was an awesome climb. It was my first lead ever, I actually fell on the second pitch going up that crack, you gotta shove your feet in and it feels quite precarious I think. I got to the offwidth and I really didn't like it. I would say it's more like a 5.7 and you gotta make one really technical move and there is NO protection, if you fall you're going to go a ways, I couldn't even get one piece in until getting out of the offwidth.
I've read this entire thread and I've climbed School Room. I led the first pitch, but followed all other pitches. I'm hoping to lead the whole thing soon.
I just have to say something about that 4th pitch OW. I've seen it done 2 different ways: 1) as an OW, and 2) and a chimney. Those who do it as an OW are grunting, while those who do it as a chimney fly right up it. I backed off the lead for the 4th pitch, because I got spooked by the run-out at the crux where it's steepest, but when I followed the pitch, I was surprised to see how easy it was to do as a chimney. The back of your right shoulder can be used on the wall. If it were steeper, however, it would probably be mandatory to do it as an OW.
Oh, and exiting pitch 3 was where I struggled the most. I think I used some rope tention there. I never really figured out how to exit that pitch properly.
I swear I remember avoiding getting into the chimney/OW at all. That was years ago and my memory might be leaving me. I remember just smearing up the slab just left of the crack and throwing in a piece or two. Has anyone else done it this way?
I think it is hilarious that so many people call the squeeze chimney pitch "miserable". Think of it as a teaching tool. Even more demonic, I would suggest that this short, wide section adds to the all-around classic feel of this route.
So do it, then go to Yosemite Valley and tell me you aren't glad you did.
Edited to address Boissal's comment below: I think getting in the crack is a perfectly fine style to ascend....I definitely had half my body in there and it felt more secure on the sharp end. It also gets the job done, doesn't have to be that strenuous, and gives a sense of full climbing engagement. Next time I might try it your way to compare!
By Boissal From: Small Lake, UT Nov 12, 2013 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
I think it is even more hilarious that so many people call it an OW, something that typically involves serious grunting and body-parts jamming. This thing is a slab which happens to have a wide trough and a corner next to it. Paste your ass on the right wall, your feet on the slab and walk up! Sure, you can drop a leg in there and molest the edge of the crack all you want. It might even feel more secure which is probably what most people want when they start burrowing. It's like liebacking the Coffin though, it will get you to the top but it certainly isn't the way to get it done. If you want to get ready for Yosemite (I thought Vedauwoo was the epicenter of OW spray?), avoid bad beta and get on Crescent, there's a real OW for you.
By Gabriel Tallent From: Salt Lake City, UT May 16, 2014 rating: 5.64c14V12S 4b
This route is a fantastic climb for a 5.6 leader. It is true that the pitches are short, but you can run them together if you like and the protection is all there. The 4th pitch is awesome. (Gear beta follows.)
I was somewhat deterred by comments about the 4th pitch, so I brought big gear. It was not worth it. The huge cams were difficult to climb around, and the climbing itself is so secure that while you might get stalled on your upward progress, you're not worried about falling. I ended up carrying them all that way to not even place them. The pitch protects adequately with a standard rack, the chimney with a BD #.5, #.75 #1 beside the chock stones, and on the traverse you begin with good small gear (I used another BD #.5 but there is plenty), make several slab moves on good feet to a BD #2, and then several more slab moves on good feet to small cams (BD .3 or C3 #2). The placements are not bombproof, but they are there. The pitch is runnout only in the sense that you have to climb past your gear, and I don't think a 5.6 leader with good gear skills should be deterred.
Gabriel, I don't recall chock stones in the wide crack on pitch 4. (My memory is from about 3 or 4 years ago.) If these are new, then maybe it's now easier to protect pitch 4 with stuff other than, say, a big-bro?
Not sure anyone will see this comment way down the list, but I believe that, if it hasn't already been said, (I don't think it has), the following bit of beta is very nice and very useful! Dallen (Sunny-D) took me up this route today, and he did a variation of the 4th patch that completely avoids the chimney section. We traversed out to a small crack system that met up with a right facing dihedral. There's plenty of protection the whole way, and I think it's 5.6. Of course, I didn't have to try to place any gear, (I followed the pitch), but I think it was much easier than following the 2nd pitch, and it was a lot of fun! You do this under-cling/lie-backing movement with good foot-holds the whole way. Only the dihedral exit is a bit thin, but you finish with a super jug.
Do yourself a favor and save some time by linking pitches 1 & 2 into one pitch and pitches 3 & 4 into one pitch. The last pitch is fun but short so you could quick bail off of the 4th pitch by rapping off hatchet crack.
Great route! Definitely recommend it to people! Super chill and really fun.