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Schoolroom Area
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Mind Blow 
Movie Variation 
Playing Hooky Var. 
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Schoolroom 
Schoolroom Chimney 
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Schoolroom Roof 
Schoolroom West 
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Talus Food 

Schoolroom Roof 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b A1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b A1 [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,968
Submitted By: kBobby on Apr 24, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: Schoolroom 5.6 II on the Gate Buttress in Little C...
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb the first three pitches of Schoolroom as normal (or two pitches if you do Schoolroom Direct through the handcrack) to the large bushy ledge directly under the roof.

Two options now exist, I prefer the second:(1) Climb the wide dihedral as normal, traverse halfway across the slab to the finger crack, up crack to the roof and start aiding. After the roof, free-climb (5.6) up the crack to the large tree. This option is almost a full rope length, causes lots of rope drag, but provides the best communication.

(2) As above, in two pitches. First, a short pitch up the wide dihedral, belay at the beginning of the traverse. This option has very little rope drag, but has impossible communication, so I recommend rope signals (or radios).

The aid section traverses more than it rises, so I recommend the second aid through it while being belayed by the leader (as opposed to jugging).

Descent: the Schoolroom Rappel.

I also recommend climbing this route at night!


Protection 

Standard Rack, possibly a large piece for the large dihedral on Schoolroom, extra carabiners for the fixed pins. There has recently (2004) been some fixed-gear removal happening in LCC; if the pins aren't there, you'll need some thin iron and a hammer. It will be best to leave fixed any pins you place.



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