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Schoolroom Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungle, The T 
Bushwhack Crack T 
Callitwhatyouplease T 
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 
Hatchet Crack T 
Heaven's Gate T 
Hook Direct, The T,TR 
Hook Variation, The S 
Hook, The T 
Knobs to Gumbyland S 
Lizzie Borden T 
Mantel Variation S 
Mind Blow T 
Movie Variation T 
Playing Hooky Var. T 
Recess Variation T 
Rumba, The T 
Schoolroom T 
Schoolroom Chimney T 
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 
Schoolroom Roof T 
Schoolroom West T 
Scourge, The T,TR 
Stone the Crows S 
Talus Food S,TR 

Schoolroom Direct Variation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 3,603
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Mar 20, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (91)
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This guy was rope soloing the route. Here he is ma...

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Description 

This is a superb way to start Schoolroom, but it is much harder than anything else on that route. Climb the steep gorgeous finger and hand crack about 40' right of the regular Schoolroom start. At the end of the crack, a few spooky moves left on friction gain the regular route. I didn't think this was very R rated, but it wouldn't be fun to fall on the insecure friction moves.

Protection 

Stoppers, fingers and hand sized cams.


Photos of Schoolroom Direct Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Schoolroom direct towards The Hook and variation
Schoolroom direct towards The Hook and variation
Gone smearin'
Gone smearin'
Here I stand just above the crack portion of the direct start. From there you make a slab friction move into the crack of the main Schoolroom route. I assume that this is the "runout" part of the variation.
Here I stand just above the crack portion of the d...
Second pitch of Schoolroom. This is me having swapped Spencer for the lead.  <br />The next belay station it the tree above and left. This super easy pitch accepts all the cams you might have with you from a .3 to a 3
Second pitch of Schoolroom. This is me having swap...
Garred, Donovan and Jon doin' are thing on are way to The Hook...
Garred, Donovan and Jon doin' are thing on are way...
Gwen just before the allegedly "R" traverse.
Gwen just before the allegedly "R" trave...
Good exposure...
Good exposure...
Better have good life insurance..
Better have good life insurance..
After the fourth pitch, schoolroom direct, the easiest way down is to go 50 feet further north then there is a gorgeous pine with no less 4 slings. This rap take you straight into the mouth of Green Adjective gully
After the fourth pitch, schoolroom direct, the eas...

Comments on Schoolroom Direct Variation Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2014
By ROC
From: Englewood, CO
Jun 22, 2004

I feel this is a much better variation to Schoolroom. This route wanders enough as it is. I didn't feel that this start was that much harder than the other pitches. Very fun climb!!
By James Naus
Jul 22, 2004

This is a Good way to start schoolroom. There is one hard move at the bottom that protects well with a stoper then a nice slab move that is not hard up higher. If I do this variation I set up a belay about 15 feet past the top of the big chimney and let my second have the nice fun finger crack on the second pitch.
By vincent pierce
Sep 23, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definately the way to start Schoolroom.
By Nathan Fisher
Oct 14, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Agreed. Agreed. Agreed. Start Schoolroom here.
By Lee Gitlin
Oct 15, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This variation seemed preferable to the original, perambulatory 5.6 line. It is a little spooky to traverse out onto the face with your last piece of pro below your feet, but two moves gets you to a bomber, dinner plate sized chicken head. After gaining that chicken head, it looked like you could place a small cam into a crack. I'm guessing it would be maybe 15 feet between pieces? From there, you are into the gully and back on Schoolroom.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 19, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The lower crack is well protected with a spot of 5.7, and the slab is insecure 5.7 that is definitely R rated. Your last pro is well below your feet and a fall would be ugly. After a few thin moves, you can get a good small cam in a finger-sized crack before rejoining the regular Schoolroom route.
By Anonymous Coward
May 24, 2005

Pro doesn't have to be way below your feet. There is a great nut or pink tricam righ in the block you stand on before the R moves, just runner it long, and slab away! Great thought provovking move. Seen this stymie hard sport climbers! trust those feet it's LCC!
By Nathan Fisher
May 25, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Rock seemed way solid last year or earlier this year. I didn't question the piece at all. I placed a small nut way on the right side of the crack at your feet.
By Warren Harding's Ghost
From: Big Wall Purgatory
Sep 12, 2006

Use one of them new fangled 60 Meter ropes, and some prudent runnering...and you can go all the way to the Hook ledge.
By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Jun 4, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

is this really an R rated climb?
By Riddler
From: Centerville, UT
Nov 5, 2008

I don't think it's R. The gear is just a few feet below your feet when you make the slab traverse. Some creative use of the big flat chickenhead eliminated a slab move or two for me. This is a much better way to start schoolroom than the pointless block scramble and downclimb/traverse of schoolroom.
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
May 24, 2009

The R is for the slab traverse to gain the arcing crack left of the 1st pitch. Note this is the best way to string the first few pitches of school room together. You can link pitches 1-3 this way. making your time up on the school room much shorter if time is your enemy.
By Woodson
From: Park City, Ut.
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree..start Schoolroom here, and the slab move is a bit heady but not too difficult.
By Donovan
From: West Jordan, Utah
Oct 9, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Couple of finger locks and foot jams will do the trick here. First time up this I ran into a whole load of bees just below the runout section. Is there a rating to incorporate bees? Like 'B'?
By Josh Cameron
From: Moab, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011

This isn't quite a runout climb (can we make a 1/2R rating?) since you're never really too high above your gear at the crux. Though if you fell on the easier terrain before the crack then you could get seriously hurt. I agree with Woodson, more bold than hard. One of the key knobs is greased with chalk making the move feel harder than 5.7.

Found a tick on my backpack at the base of the climb, so be careful.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Apr 11, 2013

Totally better way to start; but not a great line to start leading on. The opening crack is a gimme, but yeah, the slab moves are a little committing. Could be a bit nerve wracking for a first time trad leader.
By James Garrett
Apr 15, 2013

So Crisco, where should one learn how to belay?
By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 1, 2013

I felt the runout section is PG13 in actual distance but the hurt factor from a slip would probably be equivalent to an R rating nonetheless. The slab requires a couple moves of commitment then, yes, you can get a very good small cam in a crack to protect the rest.
By S.Cohen
Mar 10, 2014

Nice start to the Schoolroom. A few nice finger locks and a few nice jams! Good start to gain the hook if bushwack is busy.