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 ADVANCED
Schoolroom Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungle, The T 
Bushwhack Crack T 
Callitwhatyouplease T 
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 
Hatchet Crack T 
Heaven's Gate T 
Hook Direct, The T,TR 
Hook Variation, The S 
Hook, The T 
Knobs to Gumbyland S 
Lizzie Borden T 
Mantel Variation S 
Mind Blow T 
Movie Variation T 
Playing Hooky Var. T 
Recess Variation T 
Rumba, The T 
Schoolroom T 
Schoolroom Chimney T 
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 
Schoolroom Roof T 
Schoolroom West T 
Scourge, The T,TR 
Stone the Crows S 
Talus Food S,TR 

Schoolroom Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Lowe and Dick Ream
Season: After the snow melt dries up
Page Views: 451
Submitted By: DrApnea on Mar 25, 2012

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Description 

This is the seldom traveled chimney variation to the classic schoolroom climb. Climb to P4 of schoolroom and continue up the offwidth/squeeze of P4 until just before you would traverse left under the roof for the normal route. Then, instead of traversing left, continue up the chimney above. It is well protected with a standard rack up until you escape the chimney to the climbers right (towards Knobs to Gumbyland) or you can continue up the wide hand crack. A chickenhead will put you onto the face for the final few feet to a tree with slings. Per the Smoot/Ellison guide, this is P3 of Schoolroom Direct.

Descent - From the top of this climb you can see the belay station of Movie Variation to the climbers left. Climb beyond that 30 ft to reach the schoolroom rappel bolts.

Location 

Starts at P4 of Schoolroom. Continue up the chimney instead of heading left under the Schoolroom Roof.

Protection 

Standard rack. If you head right out of the chimney towards Knobs to Gumbyland, a 4" piece can protect the flared crack between the chimney and belay station, or dig into the dirty flare a little deeper to make a 3" cam fit.


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