|220 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.8 [details]|
|FA: ||George Lowe and Dick Ream|
|Season: ||After the snow melt dries up|
|Submitted By: ||DrApnea on Mar 25, 2012|
|The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>|
This is the seldom traveled chimney variation to the classic schoolroom climb. Climb to P4 of schoolroom and continue up the offwidth/squeeze of P4 until just before you would traverse left under the roof for the normal route. Then, instead of traversing left, continue up the chimney above. It is well protected with a standard rack up until you escape the chimney to the climbers right (towards Knobs to Gumbyland) or you can continue up the wide hand crack. A chickenhead will put you onto the face for the final few feet to a tree with slings. Per the Smoot/Ellison guide, this is P3 of Schoolroom Direct.
Descent - From the top of this climb you can see the belay station of Movie Variation to the climbers left. Climb beyond that 30 ft to reach the schoolroom rappel bolts.
Starts at P4 of Schoolroom. Continue up the chimney instead of heading left under the Schoolroom Roof.
Standard rack. If you head right out of the chimney towards Knobs to Gumbyland, a 4" piece can protect the flared crack between the chimney and belay station, or dig into the dirty flare a little deeper to make a 3" cam fit.