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Schoolroom Area
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Bungle, The 
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Callitwhatyouplease 
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Hook, The 
Knobs to Gumbyland 
Lizzie Borden 
Mantel Variation 
Mind Blow 
Movie Variation 
Playing Hooky Var. 
Recess Variation 
Rumba, The 
Schoolroom 
Schoolroom Chimney 
Schoolroom Direct Variation 
Schoolroom Roof 
Schoolroom West 
Scourge, The 
Stone the Crows 
Talus Food 

Schoolroom Chimney 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Lowe and Dick Ream
Season: After the snow melt dries up
Page Views: 370
Submitted By: DrApnea on Mar 25, 2012
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Description 

This is the seldom traveled chimney variation to the classic schoolroom climb. Climb to P4 of schoolroom and continue up the offwidth/squeeze of P4 until just before you would traverse left under the roof for the normal route. Then, instead of traversing left, continue up the chimney above. It is well protected with a standard rack up until you escape the chimney to the climbers right (towards Knobs to Gumbyland) or you can continue up the wide hand crack. A chickenhead will put you onto the face for the final few feet to a tree with slings. Per the Smoot/Ellison guide, this is P3 of Schoolroom Direct.

Descent - From the top of this climb you can see the belay station of Movie Variation to the climbers left. Climb beyond that 30 ft to reach the schoolroom rappel bolts.


Location 

Starts at P4 of Schoolroom. Continue up the chimney instead of heading left under the Schoolroom Roof.


Protection 

Standard rack. If you head right out of the chimney towards Knobs to Gumbyland, a 4" piece can protect the flared crack between the chimney and belay station, or dig into the dirty flare a little deeper to make a 3" cam fit.



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