Schoolroom Chimney  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  George Lowe and Dick Ream Season:  After the snow melt dries up Submitted By:  DrApnea on Mar 25, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>> Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing. Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access. In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the seldom traveled chimney variation to the classic schoolroom climb. Climb to P4 of schoolroom and continue up the offwidth/squeeze of P4 until just before you would traverse left under the roof for the normal route. Then, instead of traversing left, continue up the chimney above. It is well protected with a standard rack up until you escape the chimney to the climbers right (towards Knobs to Gumbyland) or you can continue up the wide hand crack. A chickenhead will put you onto the face for the final few feet to a tree with slings. Per the Smoot/Ellison guide, this is P3 of Schoolroom Direct.

Descent - From the top of this climb you can see the belay station of Movie Variation to the climbers left. Climb beyond that 30 ft to reach the schoolroom rappel bolts.

Location 

Starts at P4 of Schoolroom. Continue up the chimney instead of heading left under the Schoolroom Roof.

Protection 

Standard rack. If you head right out of the chimney towards Knobs to Gumbyland, a 4" piece can protect the flared crack between the chimney and belay station, or dig into the dirty flare a little deeper to make a 3" cam fit.