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Schoolroom Area
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungle, The 
Bushwhack Crack 
Callitwhatyouplease 
Chicken Rodeo 
Great Ripoff, The 
Hatchet Crack 
Heaven's Gate 
Hook Direct, The 
Hook Variation, The 
Hook, The 
Knobs to Gumbyland 
Lizzie Borden 
Mantel Variation 
Mind Blow 
Movie Variation 
Playing Hooky Var. 
Recess Variation 
Rumba, The 
Schoolroom 
Schoolroom Chimney 
Schoolroom Direct Variation 
Schoolroom Roof 
Schoolroom West 
Scourge, The 
Stone the Crows 
Talus Food 


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Schoolroom Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Lat, Long: 40.5733, -111.754 Map
Page Views: 79,240. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003

Make this area a Favorite
What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event 
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>


BETA PHOTO: Schoolroom from the parking lot

Description 

The Schoolroom Area covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.

Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, Bushwhack Crack, and Hatchet Crack.

Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom or Schoolroom West, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.

From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!


Getting There 

Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Schoolroom Area:
Schoolroom   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   
Schoolroom Roof   5.6 A1     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch   
The Hook Variation   5.7     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Schoolroom West   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   
Hatchet Crack   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Schoolroom Direct Variation   5.7 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Callitwhatyouplease   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Movie Variation   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Bushwhack Crack   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   
Playing Hooky Var.   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 180 feet   
The Hook   5.8 R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
Mantel Variation   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Heaven's Gate   5.10a/b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II   
The Rumba   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet   
Knobs to Gumbyland   5.10     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
The Hook Direct   5.10c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
Mind Blow   5.10d R     Trad, 170 feet   
The Bungle   5.11- PG13     Trad, 100 feet   
Stone the Crows   5.11d R     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Talus Food   5.12c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Schoolroom Area

Featured Route For Schoolroom Area
Kim Miller leading with a fine swiss watch, Mark Ward belaying with long hair and a full beard. <br /> <br />Mid 70's <br /> <br />Pic may be reversed.

Mind Blow 5.10d R  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Schoolroom Area
Mind Blow is two pitches; the first pitch contains the .10d crux, and ends after you roll up onto the lower-angled slab above the lip (use small- to medium-sized nuts or cams to set up a gear belay in the groves/cracks leading to The Hook).The second pitch (.9) moves up past two bolts and ends at the belay at the base of The Hook. Rap 80' from here to the pitch one anchors for Bushwhack Crack, then about the same to the ground.This line was drille...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


Photos of Schoolroom Area Slideshow Add Photo
School Room area from across the road.

BETA PHOTO: School Room area from across the road.

Traverse from "rappel tree" to the low angle chimney for the down climb to the standard Schoolroom rappel. Aforementioned tree is below the climber.

BETA PHOTO: Traverse from "rappel tree" to the low angle chimn...

Downclimbing the chimney enroute to the standard Schoolroom rappel. This chimney is located a short scramble to the west from the top of the Schoolroom route.

BETA PHOTO: Downclimbing the chimney enroute to the standard S...


Comments on Schoolroom Area Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 13, 2009

Once you finish on either the final 5.6 crack system or the movie variation please continue up and slightly left along a ledge with some trees. Here you will find a large pine tree with chains around the trunk for the rappel. It is very unpleasant to have a rope throw down on top of you when your leading hatchet, school room west or anything under the hook. So please do not rappel the face itself.

By Michael Buchanan
Aug 8, 2009

Hey whats with the overly bolted new routes above the schoolroom rappel. There all stupid easy and kinda pointless. Anyone have any info? Detracts from a great trad/hard slab area.

By Brian in SLC
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 4, 2009

Me and mine have always scrambled down to the standard Schoolroom rappel. Instead of rappelling from the tree mentioned in the descent description, climb slightly up and traverse over towards the west on a ledge with a handcrack rail (easy, maybe 3rd class). Then down climb the low angle chimney for 25 feet. Hike/scramble pretty much straight down low angle terrain and you'll hit the rappel ledge.

Climbers who haven't done this descent before, who may be a tad sketched, can easily be belayed from just about any spot, but, the traverse from the tree that folks rappel from has a comfortable ledge with a nice crack for medium to large size cams (#1 and 2 camalots, etc).

I'll attach a couple of pictures showing some details of the traverse and chimney.

By DCrane
From: Taylorsville, Utah
Jun 11, 2012

If anyone finds a cell phone - or pieces of one - please message me, I hope to at least get the memory card back. Phone fell out of my pocket at the top of p2 on Schoolroom west, I can't imagine it's in good shape...