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Schoolroom Area

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungle, The T 
Bushwhack Crack T 
Callitwhatyouplease T 
Chicken Rodeo T,TR 
Great Ripoff, The T,TR 
Hatchet Crack T 
Heaven's Gate T 
Hook Direct, The T,TR 
Hook Variation, The S 
Hook, The T 
Knobs to Gumbyland S 
Lizzie Borden T 
Mantel Variation S 
Mind Blow T 
Movie Variation T 
Playing Hooky Var. T 
Recess Variation T 
Rumba, The T 
Schoolroom T 
Schoolroom Chimney T 
Schoolroom Direct Variation T 
Schoolroom Roof T 
Schoolroom West T 
Scourge, The T,TR 
Stone the Crows S 
Talus Food S,TR 

Schoolroom Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.5733, -111.754 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 106,243
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Oct 26, 2003
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: School Room area from across the road.
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Schoolroom Area covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.

Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom, Schoolroom West, Bushwhack Crack, and Hatchet Crack.

Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom or Schoolroom West, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.

From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!


Getting There 

Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.


26 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',4],['5.8',6],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Schoolroom Area:
Schoolroom   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   
Schoolroom Roof   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A1     Trad, Aid, 1 pitch   
Hatchet Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Schoolroom West   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Schoolroom Direct Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Hook Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Playing Hooky Var.   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Movie Variation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Bushwhack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   
The Hook   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Callitwhatyouplease   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Scourge   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mantel Variation   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Rumba   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Great Ripoff, The   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Knobs to Gumbyland   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
The Hook Direct   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Mind Blow   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 170'   
The Bungle   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 100'   
Stone the Crows   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Schoolroom Area

Featured Route For Schoolroom Area
Looking east at some guys on the top of the first pitch of Bushwhack Crack.

Bushwhack Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Schoolroom Area
Bushwhack Crack is a very fine, beautiful jam crack on the right side of the Schoolroom wall. It is the obvious straight in splitter with several trees in it about 100' up. The first pitch is a 3-star pitch, too bad it is not longer!P1) 5.8 Climb the thin hands crack, passing the crux right off the deck. Continue up, with the crack turning to fists near the belay. The first pitch ends at a set of chain anchors and a small foot ledge. Many people rap at this point (one rope), but the second...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Schoolroom Area Slideshow Add Photo
Schoolroom from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: Schoolroom from the parking lot
Traverse from "rappel tree" to the low angle chimney for the down climb to the standard Schoolroom rappel.  Aforementioned tree is below the climber.
BETA PHOTO: Traverse from "rappel tree" to the low angle chimn...
Downclimbing the chimney enroute to the standard Schoolroom rappel.  This chimney is located a short scramble to the west from the top of the Schoolroom route.
BETA PHOTO: Downclimbing the chimney enroute to the standard S...
Comments on Schoolroom Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 13, 2009

Once you finish on either the final 5.6 crack system or the movie variation please continue up and slightly left along a ledge with some trees. Here you will find a large pine tree with chains around the trunk for the rappel. It is very unpleasant to have a rope throw down on top of you when your leading hatchet, school room west or anything under the hook. So please do not rappel the face itself.

By Michael Buchanan
Aug 8, 2009

Hey whats with the overly bolted new routes above the schoolroom rappel. There all stupid easy and kinda pointless. Anyone have any info? Detracts from a great trad/hard slab area.

By Brian in SLC
Nov 4, 2009

Me and mine have always scrambled down to the standard Schoolroom rappel. Instead of rappelling from the tree mentioned in the descent description, climb slightly up and traverse over towards the west on a ledge with a handcrack rail (easy, maybe 3rd class). Then down climb the low angle chimney for 25 feet. Hike/scramble pretty much straight down low angle terrain and you'll hit the rappel ledge.

Climbers who haven't done this descent before, who may be a tad sketched, can easily be belayed from just about any spot, but, the traverse from the tree that folks rappel from has a comfortable ledge with a nice crack for medium to large size cams (#1 and 2 camalots, etc).

I'll attach a couple of pictures showing some details of the traverse and chimney.

By DCrane
From: Taylorsville, Utah
Jun 11, 2012

If anyone finds a cell phone - or pieces of one - please message me, I hope to at least get the memory card back. Phone fell out of my pocket at the top of p2 on Schoolroom west, I can't imagine it's in good shape...