Schoolroom Area Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: School Room area from across the road.
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The Schoolroom Area
covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress
and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully
. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.
Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom
, Schoolroom West
, Bushwhack Crack
, and Hatchet Crack
Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully
. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom
or Schoolroom West
, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.
From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!
Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.
Weather station 3.4 miles from here
32 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Schoolroom Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Schoolroom Area
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Schoolroom Area:
Schoolroom 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
The Hook 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Mind Blow 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R Trad, 170'
The Bungle 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 100'
Talus Food 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Schoolroom Area
Angling Angels 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Schoolroom Area
Climb straight up a dihedral toward an obvious bush on a ledge. Climb a bolt-protected slab with chicken-heads on it to a 2-bolt station on a lower angled section of slab. Stop here to belay or blow by this. Angle slightly left, up tiered slabs, to a steeper wall with 2 bolts on it. The crux is a chicken-head mantel move, as is common on many Calderone routes. Belay at a 2-bolt station....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
BETA PHOTO: Schoolroom area
BETA PHOTO: Schoolroom from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: Downclimbing the chimney enroute to the standard S...
BETA PHOTO: Traverse from "rappel tree" to the low a...
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 13, 2009
Once you finish on either the final 5.6 crack system or the movie variation please continue up and slightly left along a ledge with some trees. Here you will find a large pine tree with chains around the trunk for the rappel. It is very unpleasant to have a rope throw down on top of you when your leading hatchet, school room west or anything under the hook. So please do not rappel the face itself.
By Michael Buchanan
Aug 8, 2009
Hey whats with the overly bolted new routes above the schoolroom rappel. There all stupid easy and kinda pointless. Anyone have any info? Detracts from a great trad/hard slab area.
By Brian in SLC
Nov 4, 2009
Me and mine have always scrambled down to the standard Schoolroom rappel. Instead of rappelling from the tree mentioned in the descent description, climb slightly up and traverse over towards the west on a ledge with a handcrack rail (easy, maybe 3rd class). Then down climb the low angle chimney for 25 feet. Hike/scramble pretty much straight down low angle terrain and you'll hit the rappel ledge.
Climbers who haven't done this descent before, who may be a tad sketched, can easily be belayed from just about any spot, but, the traverse from the tree that folks rappel from has a comfortable ledge with a nice crack for medium to large size cams (#1 and 2 camalots, etc).
I'll attach a couple of pictures showing some details of the traverse and chimney.
Apr 19, 2015
I found a single La Sportiva climbing shoe in Little Cottonwood Canyon near the approach to the school room area(area with Bushwack Crack and Green Adjective), on Sunday April 19th. Shoot me a text with the size and the model/make of the shoe and we'll figure out how to get it back to you.
- Kameron 801-618-5554
By Kerrie Neal 1
Jun 10, 2016
LOST GEAR - REWARD OFFERED IF RETRIEVED
An unfortunate series of events led to the loss of a 70m camouflage rope
If retrieved please call/text 443-535-3524