BETA PHOTO: School Room area from across the road.
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The Schoolroom Area
covers the western portion of the huge Gate Buttress
and is just east of the Green Adjective Gully
. As with most of the popular crags along the north side of LCC, the main attractions are hard face climbs and stellar cracks up excellent granite.
Over thirty named climbs and lots of variations are possible. Some classic cracks in the 5.6-5.8 range are Schoolroom
, Schoolroom West
, Bushwhack Crack
, and Hatchet Crack
Most climbs descend from the Schoolroom rappel which is west-facing near the mouth of the Green A Gully
. From the top of the final pitch of Schoolroom
or Schoolroom West
, scramble down 30 or 40 feet to a tree with lots of slings and a few rap rings. Rap down and veer left 60 feet or so to a pair of chains.
From here it is a solid 90 foot rappel to the ground&mdask;perfect for a 60m rope. If you're using a 50m rope, you can scramble down from a ledge but be sure you tie stopper knots in your rope ends!
Park 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood canyon. Right now (2003) the north-side pull out is fenced off. Go left (west) of the fenced pull out and you'll find yourself among the Gate Boulders. Follow a trail to the left into a talus field. Scramble straight up through the talus and eventually work your way along the west edge of the trees up to the base of the Gate Buttress. There are several trails up to the climbs but this is what I found easiest. The start of Schoolroom and Schoolroom West is at the left side before you go up around the corner.
Weather station 3.4 miles from here
26 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Schoolroom Area
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Schoolroom Area:
Schoolroom 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, 5 pitches, 400'
The Hook 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
The Scourge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
The Rumba 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Mind Blow 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
R Trad, 170'
The Bungle 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 100'
Featured Route For Schoolroom Area
Mind Blow 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Schoolroom Area
Mind Blow is two pitches; the first pitch contains the .10d crux, and ends after you roll up onto the lower-angled slab above the lip (use small- to medium-sized nuts or cams to set up a gear belay in the groves/cracks leading to The Hook).The second pitch (.9) moves up past two bolts and ends at the belay at the base of The Hook. Rap 80' from here to the pitch one anchors for Bushwhack Crack, then about the same to the ground.This line was drille...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Latest Regional Forum Messages
BETA PHOTO: Schoolroom from the parking lot
BETA PHOTO: Traverse from "rappel tree" to the low angle chimn...
BETA PHOTO: Downclimbing the chimney enroute to the standard S...
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Jun 13, 2009
Once you finish on either the final 5.6 crack system or the movie variation please continue up and slightly left along a ledge with some trees. Here you will find a large pine tree with chains around the trunk for the rappel. It is very unpleasant to have a rope throw down on top of you when your leading hatchet, school room west or anything under the hook. So please do not rappel the face itself.
By Michael Buchanan
Aug 8, 2009
Hey whats with the overly bolted new routes above the schoolroom rappel. There all stupid easy and kinda pointless. Anyone have any info? Detracts from a great trad/hard slab area.
By Brian in SLC
Nov 4, 2009
Me and mine have always scrambled down to the standard Schoolroom rappel. Instead of rappelling from the tree mentioned in the descent description, climb slightly up and traverse over towards the west on a ledge with a handcrack rail (easy, maybe 3rd class). Then down climb the low angle chimney for 25 feet. Hike/scramble pretty much straight down low angle terrain and you'll hit the rappel ledge.
Climbers who haven't done this descent before, who may be a tad sketched, can easily be belayed from just about any spot, but, the traverse from the tree that folks rappel from has a comfortable ledge with a nice crack for medium to large size cams (#1 and 2 camalots, etc).
I'll attach a couple of pictures showing some details of the traverse and chimney.
From: Taylorsville, Utah
Jun 11, 2012
If anyone finds a cell phone - or pieces of one - please message me, I hope to at least get the memory card back. Phone fell out of my pocket at the top of p2 on Schoolroom west, I can't imagine it's in good shape...
Sep 26, 2014
dropped a nice alpine draw on schoolroom direct on 9/19/14. it is composed of a black and white wild country sling tripled and 2 camp photon wire biners. I was dismayed to find it gone when i rapped, if you grabbed this please do the right thing and return it to me. thanks. 801-557-8396 (david)