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Schooldaze 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,805
Submitted By: Julian Smith on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Schooldaze kind of goes right up the center.

Description 

This excellent route climbs a crack system to the west end of the large arching roof on the west face of Turret Dome. The 2nd pitch consists of climbing through large "bathtubs". It can be done in 3 pitches with a 5.4 finish through a nice left facing corner/crack on the right side of the summit. A better finish is to take the 5.7 Upper Lip straight on. This is a superb overhanging finger crack that thakes you directly to the summit.


Protection 

Standard Rack. You probably won't feel silly bringing a little bigger gear. No fixed stations.



Photos of Schooldaze Slideshow Add Photo
The p2 bathtubs.
The p2 bathtubs.
Mike W. leading off on P2 of <em>School Daze</em>.
Mike W. leading off on P2 of School Daze.
The route "School Daze" as seen from the road.  Due to rope drag problems, we ended up doing this in 5 pitches.  Only P1 - P4 can be seen in this photo.  They were all short except for P1.
BETA PHOTO: The route "School Daze" as seen from the road. Du...
Upper portion of "School Daze" showing the very top of P1, P2, P3, and most of P4.  We did this in 5 pitches because we didn't know where to end it and because of rope drag issues.  I guess once you're done w/P4, you traverse out over some slabs and then downclimb several hundred feet of 5.4 slab. <br /> <br />I ended up traversing out, then did a pitch going up towards the summit.  This pitch was 5.8 IMHO but short with only one 5.8 move. <br /> <br />P4 is the fun wide crack (blue line) and was the money pitch...too bad it wasn't longer!  Protects well too!
BETA PHOTO: Upper portion of "School Daze" showing the very to...
Close up view of "School Daze" showing how we pitched it out.  You can see P1, P2 and part of P3 here.  P1 was long, very runout (2 pieces in 35 meters!), and the rope got stuck/sucked into the crack where it turns abruptly left.  I couldn't make it to the roof due to horrible drag.  I had 4 pieces in the entire length, about 55 meters of rope, and only 2 of those would've held a fall I think. <br /> <br />P2 wasn't much better, with my partner having to run it out 50 more feet before being able to place gear.  P3 was a nice hand crack for 20' before the "bathtub" features.  They are unprotectable, but super easy to climb.
BETA PHOTO: Close up view of "School Daze" showing how we pitc...
Mike W. leading our P4 on SchoolDaze.  Blue line in my topo photo.
Mike W. leading our P4 on SchoolDaze. Blue line i...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 5, 2011
By goatboywonder
May 28, 2002

Great Route! We got a little mixed up on where to begin and end the pitches so we ended up doing it in 5 pitches (with a 50m rope). We started P1 at the base and ended it just after the short chimney section. P2 stopped about 30' short of the roof section because we couldn't keep the rope out of the crack. P3 ended on a huge ledge below the bathtubs. The ledge was too good to pass up for belaying. P4 ended on the east shoulder just past the steep 5.4 crack (a full 50m). P5 was short (maybe 40') to the summit. The summit is great and the descent is exciting but do-able in rock shoes (or Chaco's with 5.10 soles. God bless Chaco's!)

By Paul Weiss
Oct 14, 2002

Follow the crack up using awkard jamming and slab work. Above you the crack will begin to arch towards a point far left. Eventually you will have to turn the corner back towards the right. I placed a #2 Camalot here before committing to the move. Turning this corner was exciting and felt like the crux with very balancy moves and a funky jam. Once established on the other side of this I started to continue up the crack which was still growing wider. Safe to say ran out of big pro with the arch still looming above me and wisely downclimbed back to the corner. I opted here to climb out over the lip at a notch heading left and onto the face. If you have lots of big gear finish with the crack looks like fun. Otherwise I would exit to the left. Be forewarned that my #2 ate the rope and created a substantial rope drag. Thank goodness we were using half rope's. Supper cool climb!!

I really thought this was harder than the 5.5 rating, especially after I no longer had any big gear left.

By Jay Hippel
From: Denver, CO
May 23, 2003

Very runout, especially the first & second pitch. We were off route most of the first pitches and created a crapload of ropedrag trying to get on-route. Did find a nice 5.7-5.8ish finger crack if you exit the belay under the roof about 20 or 30 yards up and left. The upper lip "5.7" crack is about as tough a "5.7" move as I've done, my second could not pull over the roof and it made for a not so pleasant time. I do not recommend the 5.7 crack finish to beginner leaders, it scared the crap out of me and I fall into that category. Downclimb sucked ass as well (5.4ish in places). This climb seemed to not let us go. 1 star for scenery.

By Larry Shaw
May 27, 2004
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

This route is in no way runout (there is a large crack the whole way up). The second pitch is a bit runout though the bathtubs (3rd class). The upper lip is a fun exit...downclimb is about a 5.2....fun stuff.

By David Danforth
From: California/Colorado
Nov 24, 2004

As mentioned above-exiting the crack left before the arch this is really fun-a good alternative if you dont have large pieces of gear. i also liked the 5.7 variation. tough, intimidating because of the exposure, but sweet. be careful with communication-it can be windy. -cheers-

By Livia
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 19, 2006

After finishing the 5.4 crack you are still about 15-20 feet from the summit and are on a huge BBQ ledge. There are a few options from there to get to the actual summit that seemed to vary greatly in difficulty to our group and none of the guide info we had described them. So, I thought I would leave my personal impressions of that section.

If you are imagining the summit as a circle and you are looking straight down on it and the northern downclimb is 12 o'clock then you finish the 5.4 crack at about 7 o'clock. Summiting at 7 o'clock looked/felt about 5.7ish. Summiting at about 5 o'clock up was an easily protected but overhanging crack system which felt 5.9ish. Summiting closer to 3 o'clock felt 5.6ish (one 5.7ish move followed by a 5.4ish ramp). One of our parties went up the 5.9ish route and one went up the 5.6ish route.

Also, we left come cord on the descent because there is one section we felt like rapping down instead of downclimbing. Part of the way down we saw more cord from another party that apparently felt similarly.

Caveat: I'm trying to grades relative to the 5.5 rating of this particular route which, for example, felt two grades stiffer than the same rating would be at Shelf Road.

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Jul 31, 2007
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

This was a fun exploration route for me in 1996. I set up 1st belay just below where the huge crack begins to head back to the right like a backwards question mark, because I doing the climb on-site and wasn't sure of what I was getting into. Then once I was in the huge crack, I placed a #3 Friend with a runner and a #4 Friend higher up with a double runner just before the crack and route heads back to the left, which kept my rope nicely out of the big crack. My second belay, which I believe is the normal 1st belay, was at the little roof where I found a nice vertical crack that took a #1 Friend and a horizontal that I was able to bury and oppose a #2 Friend with a large nut. I then wondered up the run out 5.3 over to the right before heading straight up for about 100 feet without placing a thing until I stumbled on a large turkey neck in a bathtub to sling for another belay. From there I climbed up to what I felt was a short and stiff, slightly overhanging 5.7 crack. Just then Thor threw a very large bolt, that stuck the summit. I quickly down-climbed and traversed over to the large platform on the right side of the dome and threw in yet another belay so I could get my 2nd, Dave Meyer up as fast as possible. Dave was only 67 then and, it was hard to communicate, but as soon as he arrived we fled down (actually ran rather than walked) the 5.2 ramp back to the start. I've never made it back but sure is a beautiful place.

By J. Fox
From: Black Hawk, CO
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a R

I really don't see how this doesn't rate an 'R' unless you bring Camalots in the #5 & #6 sizes. I could only get in two crummy pieces in 100' of climbing. I got a #0.5 C4 at the first chockstone/buldge thing down low, which was crummy, and barely got in a #3 C4 up higher...it wouldn't have caught a fart let alone a fall! Take a few #4's and higher or be really comfy leading very runout slab.

As for the 5.5 grade? Hard to tell. The climbing, the way I did it at least, was crimpy/thin face climbing to the right of the huge flake, while placing pro on my left in the flake. The flake is waaay too big for the gear I had. I took one #4 Camalot and wanted to save it as long as I could...the thing kept getting wider. I managed to get in a #3 Camalot, but it was practically umbrellad (almost fully expanded) and I didn't have much confidence in it. A few meters above this I found a place for a #6 BD stopper, then moved along the flake to where it peaks to the right before turning sharply left.

At that point I was able to sink a #2 Camalot, which was the best pro on the whole pitch. I still had my #4...great! Heading for the roof I thought I was going to make it, the climbing got easier, but dang! I was thwarted by horrific rope drag as my rope got sucked under the flake as the route went back left...shit! I put in two pieces in a weird crack on the flake, and ended up having to set my belay anchor here as I couldn't move any more.

My partner came up, then led off but the flake was too far away from the face for even the #4 here so he stepped up onto it out onto the face. Fifty more feet of climbing and he could finally get in his first piece. Good times...I guess.

By David Pneuman
From: Montrose, CO
May 23, 2010

Did this today and thought I'd add a few notes. I walked a #3 BD up as my sole piece of gear until past the left then right corners then went left onto the face the rest of the way to the first belay. Wished I had brought my #4, #5 and #6 and I would have gone up to the roof then left. The bathtubs are really cool to climb through; runout, but safe and not scary in the slightest.
The 5.7 finish requires 1 - 5.8 move.
The downclimb to the north follows the path of least resistance and is true Class 4 (annoying, but not dangerous).

By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 9, 2010

This route is a classic! Excellent for the grade and there is ample protection. Highly recommended for the grade.
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By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 25, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a

This was a fun route -- particularly with the "Upper Lip" finish. Made it to the summit in three pitches with a 70m but used it all on the 1st pitch. I ran it out on the 1st pitch with just a few cams, but it's easy climbing. There are places for more protection, but generally requires large cams. The "bathtubs" on P2 were unusual, and easy. I highly recommend the Upper Lip finish -- but the move over the "lip" is significantly harder than anything else on Schooldaze. For the descent, avoided the downclimb by rapping off the large pine tree on the back side of the summit. There were two good slings on the tree already, so I added a rap ring. If people will leave the slings and rap ring in place on the tree, it makes the descent much easier and fun!

By erik rieger
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2011

Approach shoes are more than sufficient, easily simul-climbed, absolutely awesome rock! Harder variations up top are recommended.