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This route was first freed using traditional gear placements for the first 25 feet. Later, the FA party allowed bolts to be added to this otherwise R-rated section. The route is sustained, tricky, and thin throughout - bring your crimping fingers and be ready to keep your eyes on your feet!
Located to the left of Early Arete.
8 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
From: Morrison, CO
Apr 16, 2007
Pretty heinous hand-jamming at the start, and some hard-core stemming throughout. This things kinda schizophrenic--not sure if its a splitter crack, a dihedral, an arete, or a thin face.
|By Scott Beguin|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 14, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
First Ascent Party was Ken Kisiel, Dennis Newell, and Scott Beguin, before it was retrobolted by team Bradshaw by approval of the first ascensionists. I believe Josh Smith bagged the first free ascent after bolts were added.
|By Josh Smith|
Jun 23, 2008
Not that it matters, but I did it before the bolts went in. Spicy. Good route, and better now that it's better protected.