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The Castle
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L to R R to L Alpha
5.9 crack climb 
Betterman 
Camel Walk, The 
Castle Corner aka Unnamed 5.10 
Dalke - Jennings 
Dewitt Route 
Dungeon, The 
Great Chimney Route 
Guillotine 
Hardgumbi's Lament 
Nose, The 
Rapunzel 
Schmauser - Bohannon Route 
Southeast Gully 
Throne Room 
Uncle Wiggly 
Wiggins Route 
Winterlude 
You Can't Chop This 

Schmauser - Bohannon Route 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 264
Submitted By: Tzilla Rapdrilla on Feb 28, 2013
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Description 

Follow the first two pitches of the Dalke - Jennings. There are minor variations possible on these pitches.

Pitch 3 - 5.11 - Look for some sweet finger cracks above the belay. Climb these until the interesting part is over and rap, or continue on to the summit.


Location 

Start 50' left of Great Chimney Route.


Protection 

Gear to 3".



Comments on Schmauser - Bohannon Route Add Comment
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 3, 2013

Tod Anderson (username Tzilla Rapdrilla), why do you keep adding descriptions for routes you've never climbed?

By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Mar 4, 2013

Wow, that's a truly amazing talent, knowing exactly what routes everyone was doing before you were even born. Maybe someday I'll find some more ancient photos of me climbing 5.11 Splatte trad routes, like the one of the first ascent in colorful garb of Secret Climb One, or whatever it's called at Twisted Sister, and post those up on the internet somewhere.

By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 4, 2013

Tod, I fully support mountainproject and I add routes on here all the time, including to areas we write books for, but I never take a description from someone else's book and regurgitate it on here without any first hand knowledge of the route. I'm not doubting your prolific climbing experience, even with trad climbing. And maybe you did this (and the other) routes and our book helped "jog" your memory. If so, I'm glad the guidebook is useful to you. However, I'd like to remind you of what I told you before: we built some subtle systems into our book that would catch people if they tried to plagerize our guidebook. It's not something we take lightly. Thank you again for the photo of Secret Climb One as well as for the other information you contributed to the book.