Schizophrenia 

Huston calls this "Mean and Green" in his topo found here: documents.scribd.com/docs/1i25x7felmh3df16lh5a.pdf

They share the first 4 bolts, then diverge. Although I probably screwed up the beta and made it harder than it needed to be, I thought it was harder or at least as hard as Unknown 12a/b (the right hand line). Super fun though, if you can get past the first 3 bolts and the choss that that section entails.

In response to a deleted comment/question:

Yesterday was the first time I was on it. My buddy Jay went out right to that big jug out there to clip the bolt, but then found himself too far right to move up to the jugs up high. He tried a buncha times and never got it that way, and he's taller than me. So I got the same place and stayed left of the bolts using gastons and hard sidepulls to crank to the jugs. Very burly. Perhaps going right of the bolt would have been easier and Jay was missing a hold or something, but after seeing him not send that way, I figured I would try something different. It wasn't obvious that anything had broken off up there but it can be hard to tell. Staying left felt easily 12a, FWIW. I really had fun on this route (and the one to the right).

Yeah I think the big holds are all still accounted for then. I think Jay just didn't get high enough or lunge far/high enough. And after he didn't get the move, I wanted to flash it so I went left instead. Fortunately it went that way, so I never did go back and try the right-side moves. Next time I'm out there I'll have to try it that way.

Good route, it seems to me now that the route crux at the bulge is right of the bolts and the crux bolt is easily clipped off a jug.

It looked like left of the bolts there were decent holds but no more and to climb them would be a 12+ effort.

I climbed left of the bolts at the bulge today, a touch harder than right of the bolts, probably 5.12a.

Nick are you putting leaver biners on all the climbs or should I bring a few extras to leave when I head out there next?

Chris, all routes now have leaver biners except SAM and those anchors to the left of SAM for Top Rope Hero. You are all welcome.

Sweet, thanks Nick! Rapping into SAM is easy from a nice large rock protrusion on top, next time I am out there I can add them on SAM if you haven't first. This is huge, a great addition to this crag.

few bolts on this rig are protruding from the wall. could be replaced and/or reinforced with glue.

also, didn't huston's/knower's guide call this 11b.

super fun crux, btw. some holds have broken there, as well. makes for some exciting moves.