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Qual Wall
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A Red Recollection 
Block Party 
Crack left of Leftwing 
Eaten Alive 
Espionage 
Fahrenheit 23 
Great White Top Rope 
Jay Butt Dialed Me Today 
Leftwing 
Long Time Coming 
More Choss Than Moss 
Nordwand, The 
Now or Never 
Nut Job 
Pocket Warmup 
Purple Jeep 
Quail Stew 
Schizophrenia 
Secret Agent Man 
Top Rope Hero 
Unknown / "Meaner than Green" 
Unlisted Number 
Warm Up 1 
Warm Up 2 
Unsorted Routes:

Schizophrenia 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,747
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Jun 22, 2007
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Luke Kiefer

Description 

Schizophrenia climbs the left hand version of the two routes on the first tall golden wall. They share the first 4 bolts. Crux at about 2/3 height leads to some amazing jugs up high.


Location 

First wall you come to when walking up the trail from the horse trail.


Protection 

10 or 11 bolts with chain anchors. Bring draws for the top if you plan to lower or TR.



Photos of Schizophrenia Slideshow Add Photo
"Schizophrenia" and "Unknown"
BETA PHOTO: "Schizophrenia" and "Unknown"
Luke Kiefer
Luke Kiefer
John Schmacher mid route.
John Schmacher mid route.
Comments on Schizophrenia Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Jun 26, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Huston calls this "Mean and Green" in his topo found here: documents.scribd.com/docs/1i25x7felmh3df16lh5a.pdf

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 17, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

They share the first 4 bolts, then diverge. Although I probably screwed up the beta and made it harder than it needed to be, I thought it was harder or at least as hard as Unknown 12a/b (the right hand line). Super fun though, if you can get past the first 3 bolts and the choss that that section entails.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Sep 18, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

In response to a deleted comment/question:

Yesterday was the first time I was on it. I went left of the line of bolts at the crux bulge, it was a series of hard crimps and gastons that way. Maybe we missed a jug to the right of the bolts. Felt hard.

By Tradoholic
Mar 7, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Good route, it seems to me now that the route crux at the bulge is right of the bolts and the crux bolt is easily clipped off a jug.

It looked like left of the bolts there were decent holds but no more and to climb them would be a 12+ effort.

By Tradoholic
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I climbed left of the bolts at the bulge today, a touch harder than right of the bolts, probably 5.12a.

By Tradoholic
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Chris, all routes now have leaver biners except SAM and those anchors to the left of SAM for Top Rope Hero. You are all welcome.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Thanks Nick. Rapping into SAM is easy from a nice large rock protrusion on top, next time I am out there I can add them on SAM if you haven't first.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 5, 2011

few bolts on this rig are protruding from the wall. could be replaced and/or reinforced with glue.

super fun crux, btw. some holds have broken there, as well. makes for some exciting moves.