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 ADVANCED
Penitente - Inner Canyon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
10,000 Maniacs S 
7/11 S 
A Virgin No More S 
Air Jordan S 
Anatomy 101 S 
Animosity S 
Apes in Estrus S 
B1 or V5 S 
Bad Rap S 
Banana Slugs in Heat S 
Black Jesus S 
Black Sheets of Rain S 
Breakdown Dead Ahead S 
Brown Sugar S 
Bullet the Blue Sky S 
Candy Apple Grey S 
Children Of A Lesser Grade S 
Colville Express S 
Concupiscent Curds S 
Dazed and Confuzed S 
Dog's Delight S 
El Dedo Es la Llave S 
Forever Young S 
Freddy's Nightmare S 
Friday the 13th S 
Handle with Care T,S 
Harvey's Wallbanger T 
Head Over Heals S 
Heaven Can Wait T 
Hip Hop S 
How The West Was Won S 
Huecos Rancheros S 
I'd Rather Leia than Jabba S 
Innocent Mission S 
Intimidator S 
Jabba the Hut S 
Jack and Diane S 
Jewel Of The Mild S 
Josie's  S 
Los Hermanos de la Penitente S 
Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way S 
Morada S 
Ms. Cool S 
No Intent S 
No Sweat, No Vapor S 
Not My Cross To Bear S 
Nueve a Seis S 
Omnipenitent S 
Ordinary People S 
Passion Play S 
Pumping Huecos S 
Ranck E S 
Reptiles Lust and Dogs S 
Santa Cruz T 
Schizoid Way S 
Shady Lady S 
Shear Strength S 
Sheer Lunacy S 
Sister of Mercy S 
Soul Boy S 
Tanks for the Hueco S 
Tao of Gymnastic S 
True Penitence T 
Unbound S 
Unknown S 
Unknown (5.6 ramp) S 
Unknown 5.10a S 
Unknown 5.10d S 
Unrepenitente S 
Vapor Trails S 
Unsorted Routes:

Schizoid Way 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio, '91
Page Views: 347
Submitted By: Mike Anderson on Oct 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

I'm a little uncertain about this route. It seems like the obvious starts are either in the chimney on the left (probably not Bob's intent, and definitely not 12a), or to start on Sister of Mercy and then go left, but that's probably also a little soft and doesn't jive with the first bolt. It may be that you're supposed to campus up the overhanging arete.

The rock and climb is superb higher on the arete. My wife liked this one, because it's a rare arete that's not exposed.

Location 

It is in the alcove across from the Virgin.

Protection 

Bolts.


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By William Mondragon
From: My car
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Climbs really naturally from the start of Sister. Cool, bubbly rock.