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Schist Show Boulders (below Main Cliff)

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Hi Boulder, The 
Mallery Boulder, The 
Shipyard Boulder, The 
Unsorted problems 

Schist Show Boulders (below Main Cliff)  


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Mar 25, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: First Draft of area Below the Main Cliff

Description 

This is a large area running from Buffalo Rd. up to below the Main Cliff, between the small parking lot and the wooden stairs leading up to the Armed and Dangerous climbing area. This area is full of potential. Some of the rock here is sharp and dirty, as it is buried in the trees, but there are also some high quality gems. It needs some care, attention and traffic. This area has potential for many great routes, ranging from highballs to cool powerful lowballs, with some cool problems already established (not all are on The Proj so we need to get info on them). Get out there and find your dream problem.

Also there is a lot of bad fall potential here so please be careful so you don't get hurt...

Getting There 

Go to the small parking lot. From the small parking lot walk in a little along the various cliff approach trails. Many are right along the trail. For the ones higher up the hill, such as the Orange Arete boulder and above, it is best to approach from the Shipyard boulder, walking around it to the right and back, and then up. That way you will be walking on more rock and not the steep loose hillside that would quickly succumb to erosion with traffic. Avoid dropping off the main path and heading directly up the hill towards the Orange Arete. Take care when heading up the hill when the leaves are thick on the ground. There are lots of hidden rock crevasses to fall into.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.1 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',1],['V2-3',8],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Schist Show Boulders (below Main Cliff)
The Internal Flame - in back of the Orange Arete b...

The Internal Flame V4 6B PG13  NH : Rumney : ... : Unsorted problems
Around to the left, the back side of the Orange Arete boulder has an overhanging face. Sit down on a block facing the boulder, with you feet dangling in between. There will be a deeper pit to your left. Place your feet on the wall and pull on and do a series of surprisingly tricky and powerful moves involving good footwork to angle a little left and up to a possibly crumbly jug (I cleaned it a bunch, but it is that mica infused quartz rock) Next, diagonal right on nice schist holds to a committi...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Schist Show Boulders (below Main Cliff) Slideshow Add Photo
Walk in here and just past those first two boulder...
Walk in here and just past those first two boulder...
Just some of the potential still in this area. Jus...
Just some of the potential still in this area. Jus...

Comments on Schist Show Boulders (below Main Cliff) Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 23, 2014
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 25, 2009
yeah tons of potential also more off the path on the left
By Tim Waystrong
From: New Hampshire
Mar 27, 2009
Yes we need to go out there and set those routes man
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 30, 2009
I like the crusher one the best, but i was thinking aybe trying to bring into the name some history of rumney climbing or something specific about rumney climbing, something about the rock quality (schist) or something like that.

I was thinking maybe the "schist show boulders" but i not sure, i feel like this has to be the perfect name
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 30, 2009
I do know that there was a bolted route in these boulders that has since been chopped. If you are heading up toward New Wave/Orange Crush, take a look at the face of the big boulder on your right. You will see some bolt studs sticking out.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 30, 2009
yeah i noticed that walking up one time, do you have any info about this?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Mar 30, 2009
I love the new name for the area!
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Mar 30, 2009
thanks lee, i thought it was pretty good too
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 1, 2009
Lots of development has gone on here over the years, though it may not look like it now, but still much to do or rediscover. I cleaned and did a bunch of problems below the main cliff. u can find them by going to the big boulder with the high orange arete a little up the hillside, then pass under and around to the left. There is a nice overhanging wall on your rt if u scramble up that way, then a path with a few stone steps (edit-path partially buried from debris from the big Main Cliff avalanche now) will lead you further up and left to more boulder problems. There is lots of cool stuff here and I would be psyched to work on it with others. some are highballs or have rough landings, so good spotting and lots of pads would be helpful. Make sure you are quiet if you go there while the Main cliff is closed for the peregrines, as it is fairly nearby.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 1, 2009
MSprague - do you remember any of the route info and would lie to post it or do you want to just start from scratch? I would be down for getting out and redoing some older boulder problems and doing some new boulder problems.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 1, 2009
I would have to refresh my memory. A friend was calling the upper boulders the internet boulders at the time and some of the names had to do with that. I will prob just have to rename them. - edit 5 years later - recently I couldn't figure out exactly what I had done years ago except for a couple lines, so I'm just going to re-clean stuff and do them over.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 2, 2014
We should start dividing this area into separate boulders. If anyone wants to write up boulder descriptions, just make a "Temp Area for Schist Show boulders" in the Rumney Bouldering section to contain them. Once we have a few I can move the routes to the individual boulders and then the boulders into the Schist Show area proper. When we get enough boulders named I can work on a map.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 2, 2014
Cool I will do some work on this in the not too distant future, have some ideas already
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Oct 11, 2014
Before we do more work recording this area and making maps etc., are you guys definitely set on the name for this? I get the humor of it, but honestly, the name is kind of meh to me for such a great bunch of boulders. Basically calling them a shit show seems kind of negative. Even the name The Shipyard, taken from the boulder next to the trail, seems more inviting. It is kind of like the area where everybody heads out from to go to all the crags and bouldering. Any ideas or does everybody else still like it?
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 15, 2014
I agree that changing the name would be a good thing. Schist Show is the kind of the name that you regret giving to an area ten years later. Trust me, I've made those mistakes.

I've always been a fan of simpler names for areas, for instance something like the Parking Lot Boulders, etc. or something else related to this specific area. If the nautical theme sticks somewhat, then you could always call them something like The Harbor, etc. to play off that theme.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Oct 23, 2014
Mark I am all for changing it, I agree something more inviting sounds like a good idea. Parking Lot Boulders or something along that line will probably be best. I leave it up to you.