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Schist Another Sport Climb 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Shimberg
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 881
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Nov 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Erin at the crux of the route. It's blank and th...

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is fun with good holds everywhere except at the crux. Start on the easy slab under the first bolt work your way up clipping off of a good undercling. Trend right up easy ground past another bolt, then clip the third bolt, just above a ledge, this is where the crux begins. Move left on underclings these moves can feel extremely compressed, there is a small foot on the face that is usable. Continue moving left on the ledge in funky compressed moves until it is possible to stand up and clip the next bolt, continue over the bulge with one or two more thought provoking moves. Then continue up the easy often wet top to the chains.

The new guide book has this listed at 5.7 but Jim told me it was 5.9 before the book came out so I have adjusted it to meet in the middle.

Location 

On the New Wave wall, on the smaller section to the right, this is the right most bolted route, just left of the dirty gully that makes the trad route of Schist Another Crack.

To access this part of the cliff when you get to New Wave proper and the trail splits, left goes to New Wave go right as if heading to the Kennel Wall there will be three bolted routes here on the left of the trail, this route is the right most route.

Protection 

4 bolts to LO's.

PLEASE TOP ROPE OFF YOUR OWN GEAR.


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By Alyson Sewell
From: Plymouth, NH
Nov 23, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb is a lot of fun, but it's pretty short.

Also, I feel the ratings are different depending on how you do this climb. 2 out of 3 of us did it with this weird but really fun scrunched under-cling traverse (definitely a ton harder!) at the crux. When Matt did it, he just stood on small feet and reached for something. I'm not sure how easy this would be for someone my height. Nonetheless it is a great climb either way, definitely recommended!
By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Aug 31, 2011

So that is what this is called haha.. was my first lead ever in 03.
By Ming
Oct 8, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Can we say not even close to a 5.7? I don't think it's a 5.7 even if you are 6+ feet tall. I put my wife up on it because it's suppose to be a "5.7" and I watch her struggle on the crux move while she had little trouble on the 5.9 next to it. She is 5 ft 2 in. I got on it and being 5ft 2in w/-3 ape index and I had to use my power to pull onto the non-bucket ledge. I saw the easier holds to my left that would've dropped the move dow to 5.9 ish but I did a 10ish thuggish move that is upper body strength dependent. Btw she did get the onsight on that one and I was so proud of her and I consider it to be the hardest send she has done yet.
By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Feb 4, 2013

Yeah, we got on this expecting a quick cool down on the way back down to the parking lot from the Kennell wall. We definitely weren't expecting the thought provoking awkward crux! Still a fun climb, would be interested to get on it again knowing what to expect.
By Gini Kramer
From: North Haven, CT
Aug 5, 2013

A fun route, but definitely not 5.7.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Nov 10, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Absolutely no way that this route is a 5.7. We were heading up to the Kennel Wall, and we hopped on this route as a warm-up. Well, surprise, surprise! If you follow the bolt-line, as I did, there is a gnarly, balancey 5.10 move to get up onto the blank face of rock that juts out. You have to undercling the bottom and then reach up to this nasty, slopey shelf. Footholds are minimal. Maybe you could traverse left into the shallow corner where the rock is stained white, but that would seem a contrived way to do this line to me. Look out for this one . . .
By S. Neoh
Nov 11, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

The Daytripper is a far better warmup/warmdown climb.
Agreed; not 5.7.