Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown, 1950's
Page Views: 16,429 total · 79/month
Shared By: Salamanizer Ski on Jan 22, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


182 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

Scheister starts just up the ramp just left of Crushed Velvet (bolted face) and the Farley lieback. It is just uphill from Harding's chimney. 

P1 - Bottom half of the chimney has blocks inside with decent protection and holds. Upper half requires chimney technique - it constricts as you go in, with a wide crack deep inside where you can put in a #4 cam.  The crux is pulling out of the squeeze chimney.  Continue upward to a small ledge in a corner to build an anchor.

P2 - Lieback crack with a few strenuous moves. After the lieback section, the route goes up to the right onto an easier low angle crack. Final 15 feet has some easy low angle slab that moves left under a roof to the belay ledge.

P3 - This pitch has lots of rope drag as the route changes direction. From the belay station move up on top of some blocks and look to the right on the low angle face where there is a single bolt. After the bolt continue up the corner until the route cuts left (this will create lots of rope drag) and continues up a low angle dihedral crack. Go up the dihedral and through the tunnel. Optional belay station can be built in the tunnel (note it will be windy).  From here, the final twenty feet goes up an awkward face that requires some chimney technique.  After topping out, look for bolts ~15 feet to the north.  You'll  not be able to hear your partner from here, and feeling rope tugs can be difficult to feel due to rope drag.

Descent - Walk north down a ramp ~100 feet to a distant tree with slings and rap rings.  A single rope rappel will take you to the ground, where a trail will take you back to the bottom of Sugarloaf.

Location Suggest change

see description

Protection Suggest change

standard rack. A #4 camalot or equivalent is needed to protect the crux.

Photos

loading