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Immediately above the spot where the Frogland approach trail reaches the base of the cliff is a clean varnished face. The right side of this face has an obvious S-shaped crack. Schaeffer's Delight starts just to the left of the S-shaped crack and follows magnificent 5.7 face-climbing past several bolts and a few small cam placements to a good belay ledge with a bush on it. You can rappel from this ledge with two ropes, as the first ascent party did in 1984. George Urioste returned a few years ago and extended the route.The second pitch face climbs straight above the bush (5.7) to easier ground 15 feet up. Continue up and right to a smooth low-angle dihedral and belay near its top. The third pitch goes up, then left and climbs a prominent, square corner (5.8) to the top.At this point, you are on a huge platform on the east ridge of Whiskey Peak. There is another possible pitch above, but loose rock adds a certain element of danger. The best way off is to scramble into the brushy gully just to the left and climb it for about 50 yards to join the normal Whiskey Peak descent gully.
Six or seven bolts on the first pitch; trad gear above.
The start of the route ...
Nice face climbing on the first pitch of Schaeffer...
The start of the second pitch, back when there was...
Looking down the square-cut corner on pitch 3.
Maura on the second pitch of Schaeffer's Delight.
The face above the large ledges at the top of Shae...
Following the First Pitch
Following the 2nd pitch
|Comments on Schaeffer's Delight
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
May 3, 2004
Climbed the first pitch the day before yesterday! It is indeed a nice pitch. Definitely take small gear even on the first pitch to ease the mind. Some of those edges can seem just a little too sharp.
Sep 21, 2004
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c
I just climbed Schaefers Delight and it is a good clean route. I was a little shocked when I got to the last bolt and still had 40' feet to climb to the anchors. Even though it starts to lean in, I would recomend taking a set of chalks for a little sense of security. Bolts and Anchors look great! Brad Hammack, of Oregon
|By John Hegyes|
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 19, 2005
Climbed all three pitches today. At the top of pitch three, I set an anchor immediately above the inside corner. In order to descend, we bore right along an upward ramp with a lot of loose blocks. We pulled one easy fifth class move and were then on top of a giant ledge that led left to the gully. We descended the gully, which was probably a mistake, it was too overgrown and not without some steep downclimbing. We found some old rap slings but chose not to rappel. Instead, we should have gone up the gully to join the Frogland descent.
Anyway, I really enjoyed the third pitch corner; I wish it went on for a lot longer. I carried up to a #3.5 Camalot and was well protected. There were a couple locations for a #4.
|By Steve Blevins|
From: Central Coast, CA
Mar 28, 2009
Climbed this route today. Very very nice. Sun 'till noon. You can climb the 2nd and 3rd pitches on a 60m rope if you belay from the 1st large ledge above the book. We did the 2 additional pitches above, they looked inviting compared to the scrub filled gully. They were ok to poor, detracted from the classic pitches below.
Oct 12, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Handren - guide gives incorrect info for this climb. Use the info on this site. After the square cut corner there is another 70 ft. of climbing (5.4) up a black corner and 4th class to "Lovers Ledge", where you can do the last pitch of Lazy Buttress or scramble into the gully and go up to the Frogland descent.
From: Denver, CO
Oct 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
Climbed this a few weeks ago. Handren guide is wrong--follow the text NOT his picture. I wound up cutting into P2 of Ballantine Blast, and then climbing up (or rather, bushwhacking) up to lover's ledge. Once on the ledge, exit climber's left down and across the first brushy gully. Scramble back up the other side up about 150 feet to join up with Frogland descent in the second gully (don't try to hike down into the first brushy gully, the trail goes nowhere).