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Sceptre 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Turner, late 1950s
Page Views: 414
Submitted By: Daniel Israel on May 22, 2014  with updates from rocknice2

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Sceptre

Site is under the Parc Régional de Val-David Val-Morin MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A clean, arching, finger crack. Followed by a slabby traverse left, and then up right the final short crack. Bolted Anchor
Rappel easily done with a 60 metre rope

Location 

Right in front of a bench near the sign labelled "imperiale"

Protection 

BETA WARNING

The crack itself protects excellently (25 feet), however, when making the traverse left (15 feet) there is practically no opportunity to protect. The end of the route is easier and can be protected easily.

The route can take a number 3 bd camalot at the start, but the crack itself will take finger size gear, and in a few places it can take something a bit larger.


Photos of Sceptre Slideshow Add Photo
Sceptre, must be a sandbag
BETA PHOTO: Sceptre, must be a sandbag
Good lookin'
Good lookin'

Comments on Sceptre Add Comment
Show which comments
By CCohen
6 days ago

Alternate finish goes straight up over the small roof to a second fixed anchor. Two bolts protect a tricky and crimpy (5.9? 5.10?) slab. Makes for a very spicy finish
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal, Quebec
3 days ago
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The direct variation (at the small roof) is called Symbiose clocked in at 5.10d.
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