Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Impériale directe T 
Sceptre T 
Éclipse T 


YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: John Turner, late 1950s
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Daniel Israel on May 22, 2014  with updates from rocknice2

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Site is under the Parc Régional de Val-David Val-Morin MORE INFO >>>


A clean, arching, finger crack. Followed by a slabby traverse left, and then up right the final short crack. Bolted Anchor
Rappel easily done with a 60 metre rope


Right in front of a bench near the sign labelled "imperiale"



The crack itself protects excellently (25 feet), however, when making the traverse left (15 feet) there is practically no opportunity to protect. The end of the route is easier and can be protected easily.

The route can take a number 3 bd camalot at the start, but the crack itself will take finger size gear, and in a few places it can take something a bit larger.

Photos of Sceptre Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sceptre, must be a sandbag
BETA PHOTO: Sceptre, must be a sandbag
Rock Climbing Photo: Good lookin'
Good lookin'

Comments on Sceptre Add Comment
Show which comments
By Josiah Ferguson
Aug 28, 2015

Alternate finish goes straight up over the small roof to a second fixed anchor. Two bolts protect a tricky and crimpy (5.9? 5.10?) slab. Makes for a very spicy finish
By Luc
From: Montreal, Quebec
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The direct variation (at the small roof) is called Symbiose clocked in at 5.10d.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!