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BETA PHOTO: Sceptre, must be a sandbag
|Site is under the Parc Régional de Val-David Val-Morin MORE INFO >>>|
A clean, arching, finger crack. Followed by a slabby traverse left, and then up right the final short crack. Bolted Anchor
Rappel easily done with a 60 metre rope
Right in front of a bench near the sign labelled "imperiale"
The crack itself protects excellently (25 feet), however, when making the traverse left (15 feet) there is practically no opportunity to protect. The end of the route is easier and can be protected easily.
The route can take a number 3 bd camalot at the start, but the crack itself will take finger size gear, and in a few places it can take something a bit larger.
By Josiah Ferguson
Aug 28, 2015
Alternate finish goes straight up over the small roof to a second fixed anchor. Two bolts protect a tricky and crimpy (5.9? 5.10?) slab. Makes for a very spicy finish
From: Montreal, Quebec
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
The direct variation (at the small roof) is called Symbiose clocked in at 5.10d.