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I debated how to write this one up, it can be a very exciting, semi-sandbagged 5.10a, or a boring severely over-rated one.
The original line went up the yellow flowstone on small pockets, and then through the small overhang with the black stalactite. You can get a good no hands rest here, and a taller person can clip the next bolt from the rest.
The rebolting took this line a bit left, allowing weaker climbers to go out around the cruxes on loose horizontal jugs. In recent years Southern Thailand has seen a lot of gumby climbers, usually fresh out of an American climbing gym. They have cleaned up the loose rock on the left and put enough chalk on the holds to make it the normal way of ascent. The grade went from a 6b to 6a (5.10b to 5.9).
There is a second pitch to this climb, all threads. Doing it in one go would make it a 35 meter 5.10d or something. I have contemplated chopping everything, and rebolting the original route as well as the steep finish. This would make for a good long hard 5.10, but would probably get a few gumby gym climbers hurt.
Anyways, the route is a good 5.9 if you're a 5.9 climber or a good 5.10 if you're a good 5.10 climber. Stay tuned to see if I change it.
Middle Sector. When you get to the wall, you will see a large section of loose rock on your left, and several anchors 65 feet straight up. To the right a bit is an obvious arete. "Scenic Bulimic" takes the line up the left side of the arete, and "Andrea's Spine Line" goes up the right side. "Gladiator" takes the intimidating overhang that goes up left, just before the loose rock begins. The rest of the climbs are between. Multi-pitch to the top starts in this sector. Many shared anchors. See individual route descriptions!
From the spine to the loose rock (climbers right to left) the climbs go as follows:
- Andrea's Spineline
- Scenic Bulimic
- Ban Dai
- Pai Noon Mai (continues to the top)
- Three Musketeers (shares 65ft and 90ft anchors w/ Pai Noon Mai)
- Gladiator (shares 125ft anchor with "Pai Noon Mai)
Ti and SS glue in bolts, threads. 10 draws to the first anchor, take 15 or 16 for the full 35 meters.
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