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Jess spanning thru the roof traverse.
This route is full value! A must do if you are in this area! Start by climbing up the arete, wandering from the left to right side. Pull through a small overhang and head up toward the larger overhang on the right side of the arete. When you reach the top overhang, pass it on the left face, then hand traverse back right to the peak. Heel hook and crank up onto the slabby right face using some shallow horizontals and make a reachy clip on the arete (crux). Climb up the slab for a few moves and traverse back left to the overhanging left face. From here, it's straight up on jugs to the anchors. 55M+ rope is needed to touch down. Great climb!!!
This route climbs the obvious arete that you will first see as you approach the 7-11 wall from the Butcher's Branch. Just to the right of Tony the Tiger.
10 bolts, shuts.
Jess in the lower mini-crux.
|By skinny legs and all|
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 25, 2009
The right hand traverse across the roof is extremely exposed. It culminated with myself straddling a large horn at the lip to rest. This route required a higher level of commitment than most of the grade at the New.
|By Jeffrey Gagliano|
From: Pennsburg, PA
Jun 27, 2010
Got the on-sight last week. Exposed yes...if you're a sport climber. Not so much for the well-traveled traddy. Not to down-play the quality of the route though...for it is truly first rate. One amazing sequence after another, the whole way up. Anyone who ascends this thang should be proud.
|By Blake Cash|
Nov 15, 2011
Don't quite understand what being a "well-traveled traddy" has to do with it feeling less exposed? It's more exposed than most routes in the New, period...trad or not. Amazing route though...a must do regardless of what grade you climb.
Jan 30, 2013
This is one of the few routes I vividly remember from my one trip down here... Thought it was an incredible climb.