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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Scene of the Crime 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Bowker 1990
Page Views: 2,601
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 17, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (98)
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lily chilling after making the crux reach on Scene...

Description 

A very enjoyable climb and a good first climb of the grade for those breaking in to 5.10s. There are two cruxes, the first steep and a little pumpy the next techy and footworky.

Starting on the left end of the cave climb up directly on steep rock or step off a boulder to reach good holds. A few of the key holds on the first part are a bit hidden, so if you feel like it's too hard for the grade you might be right. Continue up and right to a good rest stance, then around the corner and left on to balancy moves (past a loose hold that just won't come all the way out (yet) and on to the Quick clips.

Enjoy.


Location 

On the left side of the cave, the next route left of Cereal Killer (5.11c).


Protection 

5 bolts to quick clips.
Stick clip the first bolt.



Photos of Scene of the Crime Slideshow Add Photo
Making the third clip
Making the third clip
lily on the tricky low angle upper crux...
lily on the tricky low angle upper crux...
nicole enjoying the jug
nicole enjoying the jug
mike spanning the crux on Scene of the Crime...
mike spanning the crux on Scene of the Crime...
Jeff is through the low crux...
Jeff is through the low crux...
Jeff in the crux...
Jeff in the crux...
the crux is reachy for shorties.... nicole, making it work
the crux is reachy for shorties.... nicole, making...
If you looked down this route a lot you would see this expression all the time... it says "wait... how do i get to that hold..."...
If you looked down this route a lot you would see ...
Transitioning off the face
Transitioning off the face
Nicole on the lower section of SOTC...
Nicole on the lower section of SOTC...
Comments on Scene of the Crime Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 30, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

I've always done this route without the holds in the crack out to the left, I always felt like I was doing 11- moves with compression moves.

It is a cool variation to not use the jugs out left.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 30, 2007

i always felt that not using the holds to the left messed up the flow of the route and made the moves feel forced and awkward... i never did this variation on purpose but messed it up the first time i climbed it...

i tend to leave the eliminates for the gym... but each to there own...

By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Jan 11, 2008

The hold Lee is talking about is kind of hidden off to the left and for me it makes the difference between a really fun, somehwat casual climb and a pretty big, but still exciting slap in the face.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

This route has a really fun lower section but the top is a little weird.

I would certainly stick clip the first bolt, I did not and it was a little weird.

What is the route the continues from the anchors of this climb?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 20, 2010

Crime and Punishment 11b. It is a nice climb that weaves up through the roofs.

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Nov 14, 2011

this climb would be better if someone could get that lose hold off...it seems pretty well stuck but still sketchy

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 14, 2011

It has been tested with a bar and is very well chocked in. I kind of like it. It freaks people out, but is safe. Keeps them on their toes.

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Nov 15, 2011

good to know!

By S. Neoh
Nov 15, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

That hold has been loose for at least 18 years, if not longer. That said, I stick clip the 1st bolt these days; just not worth risking an ankle injury over a route I have done many times.