Scene of the Crime 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Tom Bowker 1990 |
| Submitted By: | lee hansche on Apr 17, 2007 |
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lily chilling after making the crux reach on Scene...
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Description A very enjoyable climb and a good first climb of the grade for those breaking in to 5.10s. There are two cruxes, the first steep and a little pumpy the next techy and footworky.
Starting on the left end of the cave climb up directly on steep rock or step off a boulder to reach good holds. A few of the key holds on the first part are a bit hidden, so if you feel like it's too hard for the grade you might be right. Continue up and right to a good rest stance, then around the corner and left on to balancy moves (past a loose hold that just won't come all the way out (yet) and on to the Quick clips.
Enjoy.
Location On the left side of the cave, the next route left of Cereal Killer (5.11c).
Protection 5 bolts to quick clips.
Stick clip the first bolt.
lily on the tricky low angle upper crux...
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Jeff is through the low crux...
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Jeff in the crux...
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If you looked down this route a lot you would see ...
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Nicole on the lower section of SOTC...
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mike spanning the crux on Scene of the Crime...
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the crux is reachy for shorties.... nicole, making...
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nicole enjoying the jug
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| Comments on Scene of the Crime |
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By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 30, 2007
rating: 5.10b
| I've always done this route without the holds in the crack out to the left, I always felt like I was doing 11- moves with compression moves.
It is a cool variation to not use the jugs out left. |
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 30, 2007
| i always felt that not using the holds to the left messed up the flow of the route and made the moves feel forced and awkward... i never did this variation on purpose but messed it up the first time i climbed it...
i tend to leave the eliminates for the gym... but each to there own... |
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
Jan 11, 2008
| The hold Lee is talking about is kind of hidden off to the left and for me it makes the difference between a really fun, somehwat casual climb and a pretty big, but still exciting slap in the face. |
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 19, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b
| This route has a really fun lower section but the top is a little weird.
I would certainly stick clip the first bolt, I did not and it was a little weird.
What is the route the continues from the anchors of this climb? |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 20, 2010
| Crime and Punishment 11b. It is a nice climb that weaves up through the roofs. |
By Harrison Harb
From: Newmarket, NH
Nov 14, 2011
| this climb would be better if someone could get that lose hold off...it seems pretty well stuck but still sketchy |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 14, 2011
| It has been tested with a bar and is very well chocked in. I kind of like it. It freaks people out, but is safe. Keeps them on their toes. |
By S. Neoh
Nov 15, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b
| That hold has been loose for at least 18 years, if not longer. That said, I stick clip the 1st bolt these days; just not worth risking an ankle injury over a route I have done many times. |
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