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Scene of the Climb 
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Welcome to the Gunks 

Scene of the Climb 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type: Trad, 12 pitches, 80160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kevin Bein and Ron Sacks (1976)
Page Views: 606
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 9, 2008
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Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 is actually very nice, but it is often wet and the crux gear (an old fixed pin) may be questionable. Use a screamer. I have not climbed P2, so the description is not mine.

P1 - Climb up to the overhang and traverse left to a seam. Climb the seam and the bulge above (crux) to easier rock and a stance. Escape left to Overhanging Layback, or move up and left to an overhang (5.8 R) then up past the overhang to a belay at a block (you can again escape left by traversing past a jammed block before the overhang).

P2 - Up the easy face to a white face and small right-facing corner capped by an overhang and fixed pins. Move up left to another fixed pin (Lost Arrow), then up and left again to a right-facing corner (5.10a, crux) and a stance. Follow the corner to a ceiling, exit left, and chimney up a past bird droppings to the GT ledge.


Location 

Below a small overhang just right of the obvious Overhanging Layback flake and right-facing corner.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack + a screamer for the P1 crux pin.



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By JSH
Administrator
Aug 30, 2010

CONDITION REPORT 

As of 2010, this route is almost completely hidden and covered by the growth of a maple tree at the base.