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Ascend cups/fists to short squeeze which is exited (crux) with stacks into a flared slot with a fistcrack in the back. Worm up the slot and over the final fist roof to the belay ledge. Make a gear belay and downclimb the dirty 5.6ish squeeze chimney opposite the route.
This is a great, little, moderate, wide crack with nice variety and clean, compact stone. I checked with both current guidebook authors and neither knew of previous ascents...if you know otherwise, please post up. This thing would greatly benefit from anchors IMO, and I will add some whenever I make it back that way.
This is on the SW face of the Vulture, directly opposite (facing) the mossy scramble approach to the balcony belay ledge for Medium Cool and its neighbors. This is the cleanest and leftmost of the cracks in this little alcove.
(2x) #3-new #5 Camalots.
BETA PHOTO: The route from below.
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
Aug 2, 2011
Weird, this sort of reminds one of Fin City at Lumpy.