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Scatterbrain Boulder
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Scatterbrain  

Scatterbrain  

Hueco: V6 Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 18'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6+ Font: 7A [details]
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 2,060
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 22, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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A John Bachar classic

Description 

Start from a high incut edge and slap, pinch and heel hook your way up the overhung arete to a finishing jug. Classic.

A sit start has more recently been done at around V11 (?).


Location 

Northeast arete of the boulder


Protection 

Pad(s), spotter



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Andre Khuu on Scatterbrain
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By noel.tupas
Dec 7, 2010

I worked on Scatterbrain for the first time this past weekend. Also got a good look at the sit start. Not as bad as you'd think; you can even match start on a rather big (juggy) flake, then move left to the crimp side pull. From there, it's a good left heel hook or right heel hook, then up to the crimp right hand of the stand start. Whatever works for you but I wouldn't say V11, maybe a JTree V7 or V8?

By RTM
Dec 7, 2010

Climb it first, then downrate it. Looks hard to me!

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 7, 2010

So you didn't send the V6, and you're downrating the V11 sit? sounds logical to me. Scatterbrain is overstarred IMO, but still a very good, tricky and kinda reachy problem....gets the extra star because it's in the campground.

By RTM
Dec 9, 2010

He's got the right idea, he just needs refinement. Noel, you're good, with my help ...you could be the best! The sit the Scatterbrain, imo, was one of the last great unclimbed projects in the "monument", and I am thrilled to see it go down>!

By noel.tupas
Jan 11, 2011

Miller doesn't get any flack for proposing an inflated grade having never climbed it...yet I get flack for proposing a downgrade? hmm...!?~

Haha Hey Christina and I had a funny conversation about that; would you rather be a Douche (grade inflater) or an A-Hole (sandbagger)? I prefer to be an A-Hole! Anyway so be it; I'll add the sit to my project list and report back (though it may be AWHILE lolz~)

By RTM
Jan 12, 2011

he's Chris Miller man, JT extraordinair! I'm suprised he didn't name it too!

btw - Mr. Pringle couldn't do it.

By noel.tupas
Jan 30, 2011

@RTM "btw - Mr. Pringle couldn't do it."

Why you gotta be such a dream killer? hahaahaha