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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)
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Scary Poodles 
Spoodle 

Scary Poodles 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Darryl Nakahira & Randy Vogel, November 1982
Page Views: 2,013
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005
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In the vicinity of the crux. Photo by Martin M.

Description 

The premiere route on the wall, this stellar line is classic Josh. Found in the center of the formation, this lies just right of a chimney and is identified by left- slanting thin cracks in brown rock.

The moves aren't that difficult, but the trick is hanging out long enough to wiggle the gear in. A pin protects the lower crux, although there is another tricky section just below the top.

Mostly face climbing with gear, this is like an advanced version of Poodles Are People Too, which lies further to the left on the same wall. After this climb you'll be ready to try Cool But Concerned (5.11c/d) or Baby Huey (5.11d). Four stars out of five.


Protection 

fixed pin and gear to 2.5", especially many thin to 1"



Photos of Scary Poodles Slideshow Add Photo
"Scary Poodles". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Scary Poodles".
Photo by Blitzo.
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By david goldstein
Apr 21, 2004

Good climbing, but the crux is really protecting the 8 to 10 feet after the pin, the crux, where I found the placements to be C2 -- hard to get and not very trustworthy. Furthermore, I wouldn't want to bet the farm on the pin which flexes with a good downward pull.

By Manjushri
Oct 29, 2007

Very enjoyable climbing on this one. Descriptions seem to be spot on: a nice steep pumper requiring hang time to place decent gear.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 5, 2008

Soloed by Michael Reardon

By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Super pumpy! 3 blue tcu size pieces would be nice, I pumped out trying to place a green c3 after the pin where a blue tcu would have fit much better