Scary Monsters  5.10a/b X

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  David Kozak and Eric Boehlke Submitted By:  David Kozak on Oct 27, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This route begins left of Four Eyes at a crack system that ends about 20 feet up. The first pitch is dangerous with no protection past the crack. The crux move is right below the first belay ledge of Four Eyes. Falling from the crux is simply not an option. I led this on sight ground up without previewing. I never felt secure enough to stand and drill, so I just kept moving until I got to a point of no return. I didn't mean to essentially solo the route, but it was pretty much that. At the time I completed the route, I thought it was riskier than Krystal Klyr. I've often wondered if anyone repeated the route. The second pitch traverses left and then up past a poor bolt and to a belay on a tiny ledge with a solution hole that takes a small tricam and another crappy bolt. This pitch is perhaps 5.9. The last pitch is unprotected 5.6.

Location 

It is left of Four Eyes. The route is marked E on Trout's topo.

Protection 

I placed three poor bolts on three pitches of climbing. I placed no bolts on the first pitch. A fall once you are 20 feet past the crack and all the way to the belay would surely mean a groundfall. Pitch two has one bolt, and I don't recall if any gear is possible. The second belay needs good bolts. The last pitch has no protection but is easy.