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Redgarden - Roof Routes
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Scary Canary T 
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Wisdom, The T 

Scary Canary 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b R

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Roger & Bill Briggs
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Pins, 3 Lead Bolts, 1 Other Bolt [details]
Page Views: 8,066
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on May 29, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Steve mid-crux on his send of Scary Canary.

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  • Description 

    Surprised that this classic route is not in the database. A Eldorado classic with very hard and very different pitches.

    Pitch 1: Start just right of the "Lower Ramp" and make a hard move to gain a short, obtuse, right-facing corner. Layback up the corner making a hard moves (use to be a pin in place) to gain a rotten band. Traverse left with good gear #2 1/2 #3 Friends on somewhat loose holds to a right-facing flake. Place gear in the flake and move up and left past two old 1/4-inch bolts on slopey holds (scary) and up to the belay.

    Pitch 2: Start as for "The Wisdom" but where that route goes right continue up and slightly left into a very intimidating, overhanging dihedral. Things are about to get ugly. Stem up the dihedral using small gear (2&3 RPs) to the crux move about eight feet below the roof. Do a wild stemming and palming (crux) move and reach a good bucket and rest below roof. After a good rest, crank out the roof on fairly good holds and power up the headwall past two bolt (5.10+). The climbing becomes easy (5.8) past the bolts and soon reach Le Toit at the easy traverse. Go left to the Le Toit belay (and rap the route) or right and follow Le Toit to the upper ramp.

    Great route and lots of good hard climbing packed in its two pitches. "A Briggs classic".


    Standard "Eldo rack" with extra "RP" for the crux corner.

    Photos of Scary Canary Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steve actually stopped halfway up the crux pitch, ...
    Steve actually stopped halfway up the crux pitch, ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Come on man, you're almost there.
    Come on man, you're almost there.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the beginning to the second pitch.
    Overview of the beginning to the second pitch.
    Rock Climbing Photo: I'm sure it would have been easier to follow this ...
    I'm sure it would have been easier to follow this ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The wild overhanging dihedral of the second pitch ...
    The wild overhanging dihedral of the second pitch ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Sending the 1st pitch of Scary Canary, photo: Bob ...
    Sending the 1st pitch of Scary Canary, photo: Bob ...

    Comments on Scary Canary Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 4, 2014
    By Hank Caylor
    From: Golden, CO
    May 13, 2007

    I'm calling bullcrap on Rossiter's guidebook saying the end of pitch one is 10c. Almost a number grade harder in my opinion, but you got a bolt at your waist so that's nice. I didn't think the initial crux was as hard as being kinda flamed and slappin the slopes at the top. Really exciting, it's Temporary like Achilles' big mean brother. Thunder and lightning scares hampered efforts on the second pitch. Seems cool so far.

    P.S.-no slam on Rossiter personally, I just got hammered at the top of this pitch. Yeesh!
    By Hank Caylor
    From: Golden, CO
    May 19, 2007

    For once, I am now upgrading whole sections of a route, both pitches. The 11d on the 1st pitch is not that bad, but the 10+ at the top is heinous. On the second pitch, the 12b/c section didn't seem that bad but I fell on the (10+ c'mon!!!!) roof with bolts in your face. So I took a fall on each pitch, blowing what was to have been glorious flashes. Nevertheless, Roger and Bill Briggs are genius for establishing this route and I can't recommend it enough. Just watch out for the 10+ sections.......Godammit!

    P.S.- Who took the bail biner off the second pitch and relocated it to the first pitch? You sneaky shit! You know who you are and you think you are soooooooo sneaky.
    By Hank Caylor
    From: Golden, CO
    May 25, 2007

    I got it 2nd try overall, and Wayne got it on his 3rd try overall. I am officially calling the (10+) roof sequence on the 2nd pitch SOLID! 5.11!!!!!! Jeeeez Loouweez, 10+ my ass! Unbelievably good route. Perfect in every way, if you're into this kind of thing.
    By Alex Shainman
    Sep 10, 2007

    With regards to the heinous "10+" top of pitch one...It used to be even MORE heinous before the bolts were "replaced". Either holds broke/appeared or the bolt position got lowered down to an easier clipping stance. I remember it being very heinous just to clip the bolt! Maybe my memory is just bad...
    By reboot
    From: Westminster, CO
    May 20, 2008

    Well, that bolt at end of P1 is still hard to clip for me. I'm 5'6" and actually need to do 2-3 extra moves just to start P1. Although being not very tall and quite flexible made P2 feel easier than the grade (so 12a for P1 and 12a/b for P2?). Two very cool (and different) pitches of the same route!
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    May 30, 2008
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R

    Freakin' amazing route! The 2nd pitch went down this morning on my 3rd attempt. Hank, I agree with you about the 10+ sections. It's one of those climbs where the cruxes come low, but you can't celebrate yet because you may get smacked in the face near the end.

    The second pitch is one of the most unique climbs in Eldo. Last week after getting thru the crux corner I was shut down when I pulled around the corner slapping the tiny edges with pumped forearms(ahhhh). If you climb 12- in Eldo, get on this one. Don't let the grade scare you away.
    By Steven Lucarelli
    From: Moab, UT
    Jun 2, 2008
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

    Nice send Rob!
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 4, 2008

    Steve, thank for showing me the route. I'm smitten with it now.
    By Steven Lucarelli
    From: Moab, UT
    Jun 7, 2008
    rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R

    I second the "Freakin' Amazing" Rob! Probably the best 5.12 pitch I've done in Eldo.

    If you can climb 5.12 in Eldo, then get on this climb!
    By Rob Kepley
    From: Westminster,CO
    Jun 7, 2008
    rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R

    Nice one Steven! Wow, this route has seen some action lately.
    By Josh Janes
    Apr 9, 2009

    Rob led P1 without clipping ANY of the fixed pro... just for kicks. You bad ass!!!
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Apr 9, 2009

    Every single one of you guys are bad ass!
    By Brad G
    From: Yosemite and elsewhere
    Apr 25, 2012

    I'm 0 for 2 on this route. The first thirty feet is so mega!
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Nov 4, 2014

    Tried this for the first time today. Pretty F'ing rad. Once the beta is sorted out, it's not super difficult. .12c sounds about right. Very much different than other routes of similar grade in Eldo.
    Fixed gear seemed bomber.

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