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This climb is on the far left side of the Industrial Buttress. There is a 4th-class gully about 30 feet to the left of the climb.
Your destination is the wide dark crack that separates a large flake from main cliff. To start, look for a thin crack about 15 feet high to gain the terraced forth class section. This thin crack is probably the crux. Head left across the terraced section to a thin finger crack that is about 10 feet long, then move further left to the big dark crack and break out the big cams. It looks like the big flake that creates this wide crack will topple someday.
In the picture below, Scarlett's Pulse is the dark crack you can see in the upper left corner.
Standard rack, #3 Camalot, and a #4.5 or #5 Camalot. This climb does not have bolted anchors at the top. I only had a #4 Camalot and it was marginal.
BETA PHOTO: A better shot of the climb. The big crack near th...
BETA PHOTO: A close up of the main crack.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Apr 8, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
There is no way this thing is 5.8. I soloed it and nothing felt harder than 5.7. I usually don't downgrade routes after soloing, but this did no feel like 5.8.