|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 120'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]|
|FA:||Scott Franklin 3/88|
|Submitted By:||Taylor Roy on Nov 28, 2006 with updates from Mike Dalby|
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|Comments on Scarface||Add Comment|
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From: Morrison, CO
Nov 29, 2006
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
There's still a great deal of debate about the grade of this route. Its true that during the late 90's the route was generally considered 13d by the climbing media, and other folks who had not actually climbed it. In the Wolverine guidebook that came out 6 months ago, its listed at 14a, and the author says that after much debate, the consensus grade has settled in at 14a.
All the folks I know of (myself included) who have been on it in the last few years are calling it 14a. On rock like this its also important to consider that the difficulty of a route may change over time. Of course, everyone's entitled to their opinions, but to me, it will always be the first 5.14 established by an American.
(edited on 31 May 07)
By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 1, 2007
This route is a bit beyond me but having talked to a few people who have been on it it sounds like the .13d/.14a distinction comes down to whether or not you can milk the no-hands rest. My friend Brian is a bit too short to really lock into it so it feels rather hard for him.
I dunno-- I normally take all grades with a grain of salt and never quibble about minor differences. This one certainly seems to go back and forth a lot though.
By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
Dec 12, 2011