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Redpointed by Scott Franklin in 1987, Scarface was the first 5.14 established by an American. Since then it has been downrated to 5.13d. Regardless of the rating, this route is one of the most beautiful and inspiring lines in America.
This route can be broken into four distinct sections, each a little easier than the last. To start, traverse up and left through a series of large huecos. From here, clip the third bolt with some difficulty, and commit to the first and most intense section of the route, which involves huge lockoffs on one and two-finger pockets. Rest at a set of large pockets, and then move into the second part of the route- a short, insecure right-facing corner, ending with an awkward set of resting holds. After recovering, lean and funk your way up the arete to the redpoint crux, and try not to fall getting you body onto the slab. Although the fourth and final section is only 5.11+, the runouts and tiny holds provide the opportunity to blow it - or at least think about it. Absolutely classic!
Just left of Rude Boys on the Christian Brothers formation.
Quickdraws and a 60-meter rope.
Beginning the long journey to the chains.
The infamous mono (left hand), just below the 3rd ...
From: Morrison, CO
Nov 29, 2006
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ E8 7a
There's still a great deal of debate about the grade of this route. Its true that during the late 90's the route was generally considered 13d by the climbing media, and other folks who had not actually climbed it. In the Wolverine guidebook that came out 6 months ago, its listed at 14a, and the author says that after much debate, the consensus grade has settled in at 14a.
All the folks I know of (myself included) who have been on it in the last few years are calling it 14a. On rock like this its also important to consider that the difficulty of a route may change over time. Of course, everyone's entitled to their opinions, but to me, it will always be the first 5.14 established by an American.
(edited on 31 May 07)
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jun 1, 2007
This route is a bit beyond me but having talked to a few people who have been on it it sounds like the .13d/.14a distinction comes down to whether or not you can milk the no-hands rest. My friend Brian is a bit too short to really lock into it so it feels rather hard for him.
I dunno-- I normally take all grades with a grain of salt and never quibble about minor differences. This one certainly seems to go back and forth a lot though.