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Alcatraz Wall
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Birdman 
Hoosgal 
Machinegun 
Scarface 
Solitary 

Scarface 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Ben Burnham
Page Views: 1,334
Submitted By: Almonzo on Jan 1, 2003
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Description 

This climb heads up the obvious zig-zagging crack on the Alcatraz Wall. This is the last major crag on the east side of the creek as you head down through Jailhouse Rock. To get there, continue down the creek past the point where it makes a 90 degree left turn below the Cell Blocks. Continue downhill past several bolted routes on the left (40 to Life, Mr. Meanor, & Mug Shot). At the bottom of the hill look up and left to see the Alcatraz Wall.

This is a nice lead if you're looking for a relaxed climb where you can practice super-easy gear placement. The 5.7 rating is a bit too stiff. The hardest move seems to be getting off the ground, after which the route follows the major crack up and right, cuts across the face where the going gets easy, and rejoins the crack up top.


Protection 

Small and medium cams and stoppers. There are chains up top.



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By Vincent Greene
Mar 14, 2004

FA was Ben Burnham

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 4, 2004

I was climbing at Alcatraz Wall on 6/29 and noticed that the waist level belay bolts (cold shuts) had been chopped (not removed, CHOPPED). The foot level belay bolt on the new route between Scarface and Hoosgal is still present. The chopping happened since the last time I climbed there in Jan/Feb.

Very uncool. Wonder if it was the same person who took the pins off Standard Route on Chimney Rock?

Please contact me if you have any info.

George Marsden

gbmaz@yahoo.com

By Scott Tucker
From: Tucson, AZ
Jun 5, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Pretty easy climbing. I agree there may be no 5.7 move. It is runout to the first gear placement but pretty relaxed thereafter.

By joshf
From: missoula, mt
Nov 23, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

this climb essentially becomes a staircase after the first 20 feet, the protection takes some thought because there is a bit of dirt and blocky rock around.

By Aaron Marks
Apr 3, 2010

Thanks a bunch for the individual who took a dump right at the base of Alcatraz wall and left it under a rock. Some kid kicked it off and my dog was eating some human feces when i was belaying... is it too much to ask to walk away from the routes and bury your own waste? Pretty lame if you ask me.

By Eric Sophiea
Dec 8, 2013

That's awful, Aaron! That sounds almost as inconsiderate as people who bring their dogs off leash to climbing areas! I'm curious how your leashed and well controlled dog was able to get to the human waste? I wish everyone would be more considerate of others. Bummer.