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Scarface

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banditos !  
Anal Leakage 
Big Guy 
Big Jon 
Black Uhuru 
Carlito's Way 
Cement Shoes 
Cleaner, The 
Cocaine Blues 
Columbian Hit Man 
Comic Relief 
Cross Dihedral 
Death of a Cowboy 
Desert Shield 
Desert Sunset 
Desert Vuarnet 
Dirt Cheap 
Fat Farm, The 
Fertile Crescent 
Internal Scar 
Lt. Uhuru 
Mantel Illness 
Montana Gangster 
My Little Friend 
Not That Funny 
Nubian Slave 
Polaris 
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) 
Route 666 
Scard Face  
Scarface 
Sicilian 
Spam 
Steel Pulse 
Sudden Impact 
Torque Wrench 
Trading Places 
Twitch 
Unknown (just right of Spam) 
Unknown 10 
Unknown 10+ 
Unknown 5.9 
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) 
Unnamed 10- 
Unnamed 5.9 
Wavy Gravy 
Way Of The Gun 
Where's Carruthers? 
Your Mama 

Scarface 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.06928, -109.55004 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 179,454
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jason Wells on Nov 28, 2001
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area Add Route | Add Photo | Add Comment | Add Event
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View from the Scarface wall

Description 

A great area with a fairly good selection of climbs, with most residing in the 5.11 range. Since it faces due south it gets good sun all day long and is climbable on all but the coldest days - which also means a miserable experience if you go up there when it's hot. While up there, you'll experience some of the best views in the region.

Most of the climbing is bound by two great routes - Black Uhuru on the left and Wavy Gravy (worth the walk) on the right. In between lots of great climbs can be found, including the mega-classic Scarface.


Getting There 

Continue past the Supercrack area for several miles on 211 as it winds its way along the cliffs. The large parking area can be found on the left side of the road just after a sharp left curve that goes into a long straightaway. The lot is several hundred yards before a fence and cattle guard, about a half mile before the reservoir, and a mile or so before the Beef Basin road junction.

Due north from the lot, look up for the prominent buttress gleaming in the sun. Find a good trail across the road and follow it as is dips into a wash before heading up talus to the base. Upon reaching the base, the majority of the climbs can be found on the left.


49 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',5],['5.10',18],['5.11',17],['5.12',8],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Scarface:
Scard Face    5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition)   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Black Uhuru   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Wavy Gravy   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Mantel Illness   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad   
Where's Carruthers?   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Big Guy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Lt. Uhuru   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Twitch   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad   
Scarface   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad   
Sudden Impact   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 160'   
Big Jon   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 3 pitches, 350'   
Torque Wrench   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad   
Steel Pulse   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad   
Comic Relief   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Desert Vuarnet   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Desert Shield   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 130'   
Cement Shoes   5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
My Little Friend   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Death of a Cowboy   5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Scarface

Featured Route For Scarface
Starting the early lieback section

Black Uhuru 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Scarface
Black Uhuru has got to be one of the best 5.10s anywhere. Begin on the far left side of the wall, well past scarface, sicilian, etc., underneath a huge varnished right facing corner. The climb begins up some easy ledges to the splitter corner. Climb this with jams and laybacks. The climb has several difficult sections with good rests/hand jams and takes all sizes of gear. This is a long pitch and needs two ropes to get off safely (maybe 1 rope reaches the top of the ledges but it has been a...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For Scarface
Photos of Scarface Slideshow Add Photo
Beautiful fall color on the way to Scarface.
BETA PHOTO: Beautiful fall color on the way to Scarface.
View from Scarface Wall at sunset October 22, 2006. <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci
View from Scarface Wall at sunset October 22, 2006...
Eddie getting the last bit of light for the day. October 22, 2006. <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci
Eddie getting the last bit of light for the day. O...
BETA PHOTO
mid jan 2009 <br /> <br />
mid jan 2009

a view near wavy gravy
a view near wavy gravy
close up
close up
you know what kind of of lizard this is?
you know what kind of of lizard this is?
chopping some chain.. <br />
chopping some chain..
Comments on Scarface Add Comment
Show which comments
By Robert Stetler
Dec 20, 2001

As I remember it starts in fingers, it is really balancy up the start, it then goes to really good tight hands for a way (#2 friends) then it gets a little wider and gets easier. There is some cool stemming up top, not necesary but a good break. My wuss partner John, flopped all over it. This is a really good route that utterly fails to suck.

By Alan Searcy
From: Pine, Colorado
Oct 29, 2004

This is hard at the bottom but eases off after 30 feet or so. Stellar jamming, my mitts were a little too big for the bottom third, so it felt desperate and insecure. Up higher (as the rain really started coming down) the tight hands opened up into a luscious, slightly moist, slutty, big hands, crack.

By Cassie Walck
Apr 30, 2009

!!!LOST!!! : Canon Powershot Camera in a red, white and black christmas sock. Was lost around April 26, 2009 and is most likely at the Scarface parking lot. If found please please please email me at walck.cassie@gmail.com. Thank you so much!

By grk10vq
Administrator
Jan 31, 2011

Found Shoes at Scarface