Scaredy Cat  5.11b PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35 feet Consensus:  5.11b [details] FA:  July 28, 2011 New Route:  Yes Season:  May - Oct. Submitted By:  Jay Harrison on Jul 31, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Michael Farnsworth flinging himself into the crux ...

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Description 

Climb the crack and friable face above, passing one bolt before making a tricky move to reach the overhang. Over and up, using a good horizontal crack and an obnoxiously-poor vertical seam to get situated on the face. Another unhappy move reaches a good horizontal for both purchase and pro before obtaining security on the ledge.
Easy to climb a neighboring route and set a TR on this line.
The crux pro lies level with but behind the climber; a leader fall here would be awkward.

Location 

On the Isobuttress, between Adirondack Rehab and Lane Change, at a crack in low-angled rock on the edge of the apron slab.
Descent is via rappel off the oak tree on the ledge.

Protection 

A #2 and #3 C4, and a quickdraw; possibly a small C3 below the bolt.