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Black Arches Wall
Routes Sorted
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Adirondack Rehabilitation T 
Amnesia Chasm T 
Amphitheatre Crack T 
Birthday Corner T 
Black Arch ArÍte T 
Broken Broom T 
Carpenter & Das T 
Cranium T 
Critical Crimps T,S 
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Drive T 
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Gun Show T 
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Here I Go Again T 
Impulse Drive T 
Intensive Care T 
Lane Change T 
Outpatient T 
Parallel Passage T 
Pinch an Inch T 
Plumb Line T 
Post Op T 
Recuperation Boulevard T 
Reducto Adductor T 
Renegade T 
Scaredy Cat T 
Second Job T 
Side Show T 
Sleepy Hollow T 
Suicidal Sydney T 
Tilly's Trench T 
Torcher T 
Tribulations T 

Scaredy Cat 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: July 28, 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Oct.
Page Views: 147
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Jul 31, 2011

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Michael Farnsworth flinging himself into the crux ...

Description 

Climb the crack and friable face above, passing one bolt before making a tricky move to reach the overhang. Over and up, using a good horizontal crack and an obnoxiously-poor vertical seam to get situated on the face. Another unhappy move reaches a good horizontal for both purchase and pro before obtaining security on the ledge.
Easy to climb a neighboring route and set a TR on this line.
The crux pro lies level with but behind the climber; a leader fall here would be awkward.

Location 

On the Isobuttress, between Adirondack Rehab and Lane Change, at a crack in low-angled rock on the edge of the apron slab.
Descent is via rappel off the oak tree on the ledge.

Protection 

A #2 and #3 C4, and a quickdraw; possibly a small C3 below the bolt.


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