Strange, it appears that route was previously entered in the database under mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/106214>>>, but it appears to have been deleted. So, we'll just enter it again....
This is an odd crack system that lies just to the right of No Direction Home and appears to currently be the right-most climb on this small crag. The curbside appeal is a bit low on this one, but the climbing is somewhat engaging. To improve the experience, you can continue on the upper half of No Direction Home by just moving a bit left at the anchor (bring 48" slings for each if you decide to clip both) to make a 90' pitch. The rock appears shattered but seems more solid than on Romancing The Stone.
Start up the crack system, move right to a jug, go up, then left, then up. Clip the bolt, traverse left. Now, if you are thug-like, you'll just yard and paw your feet on the lichen (crux). Smarter folk will use a knob to the left. Continue up easy terrain to the 2 bolt anchor.
To continue, move left and follow 4 more bolts up moderate terrain to the 2 bolt anchor of No Direction Home.
This is an odd crack system that lies just to the right of No Direction Home.
Light rack: possibly green Alien, red Alien, #1 Camalot, orange Alien (or big wire), bolt.
Making the move by the bolt.
|By Jay Eggleston|
May 23, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
I used a #2 Camalot on this. I placed one nut and 2 other small Camalots as well, a 0.3 and a 0.5.
|By Glen Charnoski|
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2013
Interesting line at the right of the climbable section of the wall (lichen lurks just to the right). I found some loose rock in the vertical seams in the first 20 ft. Can continue route by using last 5 bolts of "No Direction Home" for added enjoyment.